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Brill, thanks everyone, I’ll look into these suggestions and let you know.

Given that they're sitting pretty proud of the hardware you should be able to cut a slot into them either with angle grinder, dremel of file. Then use a flat blade screw driver to get them turning. Once they've turned a few times they will be proud enough you can then take a drill and clamp the...

I did my entire ground floor (80m2). I tore up the original suspended timber floor (Which was knackered and needed replacing). Had concrete poured, then 100mm insulation. Laid UFH pipes on top of this and then 60mm Anhydrite screed. This method gives a faster response to demand for heating. You...

Hi all, I'm looking to replace the single pane glass in my front door and side windows either side of door. The front door enters into a porch which has UPVc double glazing to the exterior. The existing wood frame is really thick, like over 2'' so I've plenty of space for a thicker double...

Thanks Dazlight, Yes id come across that product too while searching. Sub floor was defo dry. It had been laid the previous year without covering as I was saving and having the kitchen installed. Also had Laurence removed well before I laid the tiles. I also primed with Bal121 I think it was.

Hi all, The other week I installed my LVT oak effect tiles into my kitchen diner extension. The job mostly went ok but i ran into trouble on one of the last sections. I'd had to go around a kitchen island and when the planks came back together on the other side I'd somehow lost the alignment and...

Hi, I've a new ground floor extension and i'm ready to board underside of roof. It's a vaulted warm roof with velux windows. I've 100mm insulation between rafters and was told to add 27mm thermo board to underside of roof. Does this 27mm themo board also need to be fire lined? Rest of...

Hi all, I'm yet another poor sole trying to get their heads around central heating wiring. I've currently got a Salus IT500 configured to run just central heating. Boiler is a Worcester 34CDI. Now i've added UFH to downstairs I want to be able to control 2 zones, upstairs rads and downstairs...

I found cracks in various internal walls during my renovation of 1935 house. Non in the external walls though... One thing to get your hands on could be a crack detector. Its an inexpensive plastic tool that screws either side of the crack with a cross hair arrangement. You can use it to...

For my single storey extension with bi folds (4.2m) It was steel to inside leaf with padstones and plate welded to bottom of steel 800mm wide which reached external leaf. External built out of Fibrolite blocks - no need for any padstones. Bifolds bolted directly to steel plate and sat halfway...

Hi all, I've had a scout around for an existing thread which might cover this but can't find anything so apologies if one does exist. In the process of planning my wet UFH. I want wet UFH to whole downstairs and rads on first floor. I've currently got a Salus IT500 wireless controller and have...

Brill, so I can still use the one I’ve ordered. Certainly looked the same on the pictures and defo didn’t have the tab on the back. Also had the terminal screws top and bottom. Only difference I could see in the pics was the clip that holds it to buzz bar was black as opposed to white on the...

Ahh JohnD, the plot thickens I’ve just had the missus send me a front pic of the consumer (see attached). The one I’ve on order is a 6MSB16 but seems it should have been a 6M1B16 darn it!

Thanks everyone, and sorry it’s taken me so long to reply. The pic I posted was an example of the existing mcbs in use. Looks like they’re the ‘loadstar’ Type as opposed to the star breaker which screwfix sell within the Crabtree range. I’m assuming the loadstar type are an older version. I’ve...

Hi all, I bought an extra mcb for my consumer unit to add an electric oven in kitchen. (Old one was gas). I’d noted that the make of existing mcbs were Crabtree and when I googled was pleased to see that screwfix sold them. Problem is the one I’ve bought has a metal tab sticking out the back...

Thanks notch7. Yes it’s probably cheaper to increase the insulation thickness than the screed. Had I known about this ‘limit’ I’d have gone thicker on the concrete slab which would have been cheaper still. So just left curious about why it’s limited at 60mm. Can’t find anything on tinterweb

Haha yes. What was even better is I wasn’t at home when it was done. Nice to come home and see progress - if I had the money I’d have trades do the lot - mind you, where’s the fun in that

Hi everyone, I was planning on having a liquid screed over my underfloor heating pipes and had in my head a nice 75mm thick design (to retain plenty of heat). My design is 110mm concrete, 100mm insulation, 75mm screed. This was to create a fairly level threshold through rear bifold doors...

Well I never used the barrow guys in the end. Had a call back from another company who pump it in and they said they offer a laying service too. No messing around with battons. Cost me extra but they’ve done a decent job in my opinion

Thanks bobasd, Finding a contractor to do the work has been a challenge but today I think I’ve sorted it. Originally it was going to cost me 1400 for 10.5 m3 plus pump. I’ve now found a company who are going to barrow it in for 1700. All they request is that I set up perimeter battons as a...