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If the holes drilled are strategic you can control, to an extent, the manner in which it will break up, minimising damage to the surround. It'll work out, generally these things just take a bit of time. Pain in the arse but worth it in the end.

For sharpening, making your own sharpening station is a nice first woodworking project to make entirely by hand. I made a wood base to hold 3 diamond stones and a strop out of an offcut of sapele I found in a bin at the timber merchants. Because I'm useless I use a veritas sharpening guide but...

Depending on the tray material, I'd probably be looking at using an SDS with a chisel for this. I'd carefully drill a bunch of holes to make it into swiss cheese and then the SDS with a chisel to carefully break it up. If its plastic, I'd weaken it with a good plunge saw that had the depth set...

I think this might be what you're looking for, but it is probably better to check with Wago. Their literature isn't all that clear tbh and I've struggled myself with a few things from them. https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-41a-junction-box-55-x-126-x-115mm-grey/412ft

Ah ha, we must have misheard. When electrical soldering though, we do use a damp sponge right? The solder beads and comes off the iron onto the sponge. Appreciate it may be entirely different, but thats why we didnt question it. lol

V&B soft close seats can yellow too, so it's not just Duravit. Our Subway 2 did in 1 year, mild soap and water only. In contrast, our 25 year old Ideal Standard contract quality seats have been perfect.

To work out how to remove it rather depends on how it was fixed down. I'm just a DIYer admittedly, but reverse engineering is much easier if you have an overall understanding of what you face. There are so many ways to fix shower trays down and some removals will be easier than others...

Hello everyone, I'll give a bit of background to my question which is, I suppose, the latest installment of our DIY quest to refurbish our entire house. A few days ago our friendly plumber came over to do a bit of work to our mains pipe and some additional pipework under the kitchen sink...

blurp thank you for your post. I read it but then got back into the job and forgot to thank you. Concrete screws are a good shout but I wasn't sure how well they would do in the blockwork as it's pretty poor stuff that we have. In the end, we worked out that we could just about get away with...

Hello all, Hoping someone may have ideas or advice for my situation. I need to fix a basin to the wall. There is no pedestal but it is 40% supported on the underside by an oak plinth which is fixed to some battening used for boxing in. The plinth is solid. I have considered several possible...

Hi Wayners I'm not sure if the PVA is thinned or how it was prepared. I tried to sand it, but 120 grit just squeaks over it and makes no progress whatsoever, not even gumming the paper. I think the solution here is going to be a test patch and try the two options suggested by you good people

Absolutely this. Also, the claimed green credentials of EV's for its full life cycle are far from proven. There is also a very obvious problem with raw materials and the tiny little issue of access to charging points, people who live in terraced housing with no parking, flats, range, battery...

Would you not be concerned about a patchy finish if I apply only to the visible PVA? It would mean I was painting the outlines of squares in the centre of some walls, if you see what I mean.

Hi all, A plasterer recently performed quite extensive repair/infill work on some of our partition walls and elements of the ceiling. He used PVA when skimming. It's nice and smooth but not overly polished. The PVA extends to around 6" outside of the repaired areas and there is bare skim...

I can't delete the now somewhat irrelevant posts above, although I suppose they are related. In terms of which professional to approach I'd probably suggest a chartered surveyor. I'd have expected an issue like this to have been picked up during your survey at the time of purchase. Again, a...

Nevermind I can see it is.

Is that roofing felt thats visible below the deck level?

Below you can see where the tarmac abutts the brick wall. There is clear evidence of damp in the lower quarter of the brick work as moisture is unable to escape through the tarmac. It's surprisingly common, especially on properties that bound pavements on main roads, where the council slap the...

I've seen this a lot on properties where the tarmac runs right up to the exterior wall. Buildings need to breathe. If you have concrete paving slabs right up against the exterior wall, I'd suggest thats likely to be your problem. The moisture in the ground has nowhere to evaporate to so...

Afternoon, Following extensive water damage thanks to the original construction company tiling straight on to bare plasterboard in the shower area, I'm facing a bit of a tricky situation. I need to remove a single side of the 9mm plasterboard from the paramount board and then remove the...