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I replaced just the microswitch. I plugged the L/N of the motor into a test block and the motor was working fine turned into fully open position, which further pointed to the switch. After opening, pressing and depressing the switch wasn't completing the circuit.

Thanks all. It was the microswitch at fault.

In my house once the day begins, we spend most of our time downstairs so it makes sense. The cost benefit as it stands, I cannot justify replacing it all with smart TRV. Only need upstairs closer to night time.

Ok thanks guys, I will get the Mrs to empty the entire cupboard to have a look. JW video helped to understand what a micro switch was. Maybe the plastic bit has just snapped off and I can just get a replacement. Is there a good supplier for these things?

Sorry, wouldn't it be the downstairs one? As the upstairs one is working fine? Thought I'd add: Up: On / Down: On = Rad Up: Hot, Down: Hot Up: Off / Down: On = Rad Up: Cold, Down: Cold Up: On / Down: Off = Rad Up: Hot, Down: Cold I mean it's odd that even though the call for heat downstairs...

I've got 2 thermostats, upstairs and downstairs. Downstairs thermostat was calling for heat but boiler did not react. Then I called for upstairs and boiler got the signal and the rads upstairs started heating (downstairs not calling for heat). Swapped the thermostats, issue remained (so...

Hi, I have a electric pressure washer (Vax). I have a crack asking the outlet thread. I don't want to throw it all away. Is there someway I could repair this it's had very minimal use. Thanks

Really? How so? Doesn't bother me it's off anyway, it was already there. Will remove it if I can get an easy way of attaching my pressure washer

@Madrab - I already have a douche fitted but that's connected directly to the cistern. The toilet is very close to the front door so want to use it as an outlet for the pressure washer, rather than running the pipe from the outside to the front. @oldbuffer - It is a garden hose that will go...

I think I'm missing the trick here. I want to convert this into an outlet that I can connect a hose to as well as the toilet cistern. I'm sure I need a tee valve but they all seem to be either 2 compression ends 1 screw on with a single lever. I want to be able to turn the hose off as well and...

Thank you both ianmcd and chris_w for guiding me in the right direction. I managed to locate the junction box and to my pleasure it appears I might be good from a wiring point of view, if I use a jumper to power the thermostat. I can see there are neutral wires going into junction box from the...

Why would you suggest not using a socket, is it because it would not be isolated when you turn off from the spur near the boiler? There is an alternative, but it would require some work perhaps less so than completely brand new wiring. If you look at my original picture, you can see there is a...

So I've got a couple of things I can do. Very near it I have a light switch, chances of it having a neutral, I'll have to check. But technically insulation permitting I should be able to draw a wire through. Option 2 is further down a bit, there is a socket similarly I could draw it or I could...

I was using GC version. The question is from my old thermostat which terminals correspond to the new "GC" terminals...

So you were right I checked again and there are 236V when I connect up the two points using multi meter. Curiously though, I thought that would trigger the central heating on, but it didn't hmm Could you please instruct the correct wiring sequence based on the above new info. I seem to have a...

I have an Ideal Combi ES35 boiler. Hmm some good points. I think you're right. That it is live switched. Which means there is already live there. First thing is first I need to establish if its live or not.

I will be drawing a new wire into the housing to power it up. The existing one is battery controlled. I put a tester on both wires and none of them are live, or so it appears. I will try again later today and feedback. To me it looks like the thermostat is a simple switch that completes the...

I'm planning on replacing my existing danfoss tp4/5000 with one of the numerous WiFi thermostats available from China. There are a few different designs but the contacts are more or less the same. Just want to clarify the following will work. Attached is a picture of my current thermostat with...

So I plan on doing the following: Potterton -> Nest N - N L-L 3-6 4-3 In a separate block: Connect all B together Connect all D together Then on the heatlink: L-2-5 (using the wire left from L-5 from old programmer) Then on the room thermostat H-TL Terminate neutral

Hello, thanks for the response. It appears to be in the fully pumped position as the little switch is in "-" position.