Search results

  1. S

    Oven 20amp which MCB

    thanks again all for the advice.
  2. S

    Oven 20amp which MCB

    Thanks again to all for you comments. As the max connection load is 2500 watts, does that mean the connection cable (consumer unit to oven distance = 4m max) could even be 4mm T&E? As I plan on installing the circuit myself (get the council to check out the install etc) will it be against...
  3. S

    Oven 20amp which MCB

    I have not taken delivery, however the document states the following: Connection Load:2500 Watts Fuse Rating: 20 amps So to recap: MCB should be 20amp Questions: Can I use the 20amp DP MK Grid switch or should I go for a 32amp cooker switch? Should I stick with the (usual) 6mm T&E...
  4. S

    Oven 20amp which MCB

    Hi, I am refitting my kitchen and will add an electric oven (currently Gas) The specs document states it should be fused at 20amp for which I plan on using the MK Grid 20amp DP switch. I have an 'old' consumer unit using Wylex 'NB' MCB's. As these are hard to find (than NSB's) I want to...
  5. S

    Kitchen FCU v 20 Amp DP

    Thanks to all of you for your comments. As the fridge is on one side and the WM will be on the other... I may just bight the bullet and have a 20 AMP DP wired to the ring just above the appliances. The DP's will be evenly spread across the circuit. I may also settle for 2 DP for the...
  6. S

    Kitchen FCU v 20 Amp DP

    Thanks Crafty1289 I did think of using the Grid system, but I still want to know the answers to the below. I'm still interested if anybody can answer... Question 1 How many 20Amp DP switches can you have, in my current configuration would it be 3 (excluding those under the worktop)...
  7. S

    Kitchen FCU v 20 Amp DP

    Apologies if this has been explained before… but I can’t for the life of me search properly on this site! Using AND as described just makes it a part of the search results javascript:emoticon(':?') Confused I want some advice before getting a pro in. Kitchen I have 3 double switches...
  8. S

    Back floodlight - 1.5 to 2.5 cable

    thanks for the OK
  9. S

    Back floodlight - 1.5 to 2.5 cable

    Only because I have a couple of meters of 2.5arctic and do not want to use T&E on the outside of the house which, will not form the best watertight seal on the light fitting...
  10. S

    Back floodlight - 1.5 to 2.5 cable

    HI, Can anybody tell me what the implications (if any) of extended a lighting circuit (1.5 cable) to feed an outside light (150 Watts max), using a 2.5 arctic cable for the 'through the wall' outside connection? All other cable to and from the (new) switch will be 1.5.
  11. S

    will my lighting curcuit disconnect in 0.4sec

    I have yet to buy the light, but it is all plastic construction. The instruction guide does not detail whether it is Class I or II. It is on the screwfix.com website and here is the link if you want to...
  12. S

    will my lighting curcuit disconnect in 0.4sec

    Thanks again all for your comments. (for Sheds) Light is an IP44 external PIR bulkhead light and will be fitted to the outside front wall. I have noticed the trip speed in action, when a kitchen light bulb 'gave-up', and it was instant easily less than a 1 second but I'll still get it...
  13. S

    will my lighting curcuit disconnect in 0.4sec

    Hi guys, Thanks for the comments, what does EFLI mean? i.e. "Isn't the max EFLI the same for 0.1 - 5s operation of an MCB?" Andy it was 0.4 seconds not 5. I was looking for a 'rule of thumb', but atleast I now know what to ask an electician to check for. Thanks. :shock: :o
  14. S

    will my lighting curcuit disconnect in 0.4sec

    Hi. A very quick question which, I hope has a very quick answer. I read in my ‘Which? Wiring & Lighting’ that a wall mounted outside light needs be on a (in my case lighting) circuit that should, in the event of a fault disconnect in 0.4seconds. If not then a suitable RCD should be...
Back
Top