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Yes i see, so its just 1 router piece that does both cuts for the doors. I will purchase the C157 however what is the difference between the bevel combination set and the bevel easy set.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/C204X1_2TC/3/118/easyset_profile_scribe_bevel_10_degree_.html Is this this in both bits. Difficult to understand that page. Its saying only 6/8mm shank but then giving the option for 1/2incho_O Is the Bevel Combination set for 2 bits or 1?

how?

what you mean doesnt relate to how it looks?

Having a look at the trend bits, i might go with them and add a small think piece of squared timber along the bottom of the slope however ive never cut anything so thin. I have a small diy router table and an ebaur 1/2 router. Im sure this should be ok. The original doors are oak however they...

haha, of course it matters, they have to be the same profile inside. Itll look silly if they arent. Could even do with it being close to it.

I can make them if i get the bits. Its finding them though.

Does anyone know where i can get these rail and stile bits brand new or worst case, buy second hand. Its for a kitchen extension and need to make the extra few doors needed.

double skin of block rendered at front. maybe a few ton at most. Have worked on buildings that have had same spans with concrete lintels

Cant see there being any significant loads on them. Most therell be will be 2.8m high gabled peak on top with an 8m span. With trusses, the truss takes most the load rather than the gables seeing theres no purlins into the gables.

YEs ill be building to building regs but dont have an engineer on it anymore. Wanting to keep the costs down. If it comes to it, ill install a 10 or 12x 4. Thatll be a strong rsj for it im sure.

Itll be a trussed roof and the gables will be 2.8m high with an 8m span. Im sure doubling up on concrete lintels should do however i could go with 10x4 steel rsjs. ISnt it just a case of building the rsjs in rather than bolting them. If needing bolted then will do. I remember a job i was on some...

lol, im sure they will know how to make it. That was just a quick term

A timber lintel, wouldnt put one in. I was thinking of getting a concrete lintel made up. maybe 12x4 with lots of steel rebar in it.

2 garage openings, one at 3.75m and the other is 4.8m. Im pricing up the lintels this week but dont know wether to go for concrete, rsjs or catnicks. On wicks site, the catnicks look not to expensive but how do they fair against a rsjs in price. Concrete will come in cheaper but in 2 minds will...

I dont think i have enough room for a thermal store. Arent they larger than the copper cylinders! This stove is already been set in position and piped to near the cylinder when i was doing works at the beginning of the year. I will draw a diagram or show pics of where the pipes are running...

Can it be done without a heat leak rad

So best thing is a heat loss rad. Doesnt the heat loss rad have to be above the cylinder.

Is the cylinder not a heat leak with it being vented?

2500sq ft house built during when things are good. The building regs wherent great, 50mm aeroboard in the cavity. 50mm fibreglass in the attic spaces. I have upgraded to 250mm fibreglass in attic voids and in the living area, dining and kitchen i have installed 75mm insulated plasterboard. Will...