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Hi all, I've followed the majority opinion and ordered 14 sheets of 9mm 1.8 by 90cm. I'm hoping they are fairly manageable by one man and a prop. Thanks for all your help!

Thanks all for the really helpful replies. Seems like retrospective adding noggins would be a real headache and thus I have the option of either over-boarding or putting joining strips of, say, hardboard, behind the boards to stich the edges together. Do you think they will both produce a decent...

Thanks, Bonni. 9mm should be easier than 12 or even 15 if I overboard., so that's good to know.

Hi SFK, Would this not still require the insertion of noggins, or are you thinking 15mm boards? If the latter, I guess I just need a spare back to get them up :-) Thanks.

Thanks, Deluks.

Posted to the plastering forum but with no response, so I was hoping I might be luckier here... Thanks in advance! Hi all, I would be very grateful for any wisdom you have time to share. I have a ceiling I want to get skimmed. It was plasterboarded by the previous owner and filler applied...

Hi all, I would be very grateful for any wisdom you have time to share. I have a ceiling I want to get skimmed. It was plasterboarded by the previous owner and filler applied between the boards. However, there is no securing of the long edges of the boards and thus the boards have moved...

Doh! Just realised that my comments re the extra surface area of the walls lifts them up quite considerably in the potential heat loss stakes, and thus they must be equal - or probably higher - on the heat-loss spectrum than the ceiling. But I get I'm trying to generalise a complex system here...

Once again, many thanks LondonLad21! Your help is invaluable and hugely appreciated! Understood about the artificial nature of u-values - I guess they're more of a rough guide. Could I please just ask whether you think my insulation levels in each of the below areas sound reasonable (for a...

Hi all, Many thanks for all the input and the links. All very insightful! I'm leaning towards the battened approach mentioned by LondonLad21. If I went this approach, but did it in phases based on prioritising heat retention and reducing moisture, am I right in thinking my schedule would be...

Hi motorbiking, Many thanks for the reply! Very useful! Re the garage door, I guess it's around 4sqm in area. My understanding of the cost of celotex - or a most cost-effective equivalent? - would make this quite a bit more expensive that a basic stud wall. Do I understand correctly, and If so...

Hi all, We are looking at doing some basic modifications to a single skinned, brick built detached garage to turn it into a workshop that I could use most if not all of the year and would appreciate your feedback on the most economical way (ideally in the low triple digits), in terms of...

Hi Opps, Ignore my question around which product you used. It's clear from your post and the thread you were using DT. Sorry! kind regards Neil

Hi Opps, I assume you used the the DT water-based product? I can definitely live with "not too bad" :-) And if the tramlines are an issue, I will consider Floetrol. Thanks again!

Thanks, opps! So of the DT WS products, the water-based one sounds my best option - albeit with the minor issue with the grain swelling.

Thanks, Opps! Your comments on sustained temperature have been noted. Sounds like I need to push this work back as far as I can. I've not been given a date for the top-coating work, but they must have to also wait for a reasonable guarantee of suitable weather, so I should aim to squeeze in a...

Oops, sorry, I addressed my last message incorrectly to Pitch. I should have said (and thanked!) opps.

Thanks, Pitch. So if I am to use water-based paints, I need to hope the original paint is oil-based, brush the paint on and sand sparingly between coats. Sounds like the Dulux Trade Weathershield primer has a serious flaw. However, other than the raised grained, would you say it was...

Thanks, Notch! So the situation isn't as bad as I thought. Given your comments on temperature, I'll see how far into the spring I can push the work back.

Thanks for sharing, gc1967. I guess I will either have to a) use superior oil-based paints and do the work over several days or b) go down the water-based route and mitigate the risks as much as possible by using the best product in the best fashion. Sadly, although I'm all for doing the best...