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This diagram show how a cold roof can be created by insulation between joists in a roof. Can this just not be replicated on to the walls? Of course the difficult bit would be providing necessary ventilation. Not that the T&G is removely air tight anyway! I really don't need that much...

I didn't build the garage! I am just using it now and need it to be warmer and dryer. There is no membrane of any sort in the current construction. From the inside you see the 2.5x2.5 panels formed by the 3x2s and you can see the back of the TG's which currently forms the interior wall. I'll...

I have a timber garage. The construction is 2.5m timber panels built from 3x2s bolted together. Each panel is clad in vertically aligned T&G.which as been creosoted on the exterior. The building has a pitched roof with corregated steel roofing sheets laid onto the roof timbers. I'd like to...

Great, I'll try and dig it out a bit further as there is a small chance that it is contained but just full of mud - but I'd be surprised at this point I reckon it was designed as soak away.

I'm planning on installing 2 coats of epoxy primer: https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/primers/294-resincoat-damp-tolerant-epoxy-primer.html Which as per the website says: > when two coats are applied this system can act as an effective damp proof membrane helping to prevent rising damp and other...

Just so I am on the right page, we're saying put an impermeable container into the hole to create a sump into which liquids can collect and then but pumped out? This would not be perforated to allow said liquids to soak away into the surround soil, as I believe they do right now - or have I got...

I assume you're referring the "sump" here? I'll measure it tonight, could always find the biggest size PVC pipe that'll find in the whole, dig it down a foot a and cement it in.

Yeah, thing is the pit was in before a ramp went it. Which has largely, but not entirely superseded its use. Not sure how much I'd want to be mopping engine out into the soak away and thus earth... although i am sure lots has gone down there in the past.

I was going to ventilate with an extractor fan and PVC pipe cut into the boards that cover the pit when not in use. Should probably have added that to my above spec'. I will mull over the idea of keeping the soak away thing. As I see it if I do my job right it shouldn't be needed and would...

Inspection pit when clear but not cleaned Picture of state of wall finish Picture after cleaning out and some drying Where the worst of the water is getting in The soak away/sink thing

Apologies if this is the wrong sub-forum, mod feel free to move this post. I have unearthed the inspection pit in my workshop for the first time since taking it over. It was very damp and puddles on the floor. The walls are made from concrete blocks and the floor is a concrete slab; the latter...

Thanks some good details there. Epoxy primer will be sprayed on because I've already got said primer and setup to spray (automotive work). Yeah I could work a rust converter into the pits and then sand the surface one last time (it won't get into the pits but I'd rather the epoxy bond to the...

The last lot of builders I had in used self-threaded concrete fixing for just about everything, saving them from having to mess around with rawl plugs. They seem pretty nifty. Obviously you're not going to hang a picture frame up with them, but for other stuff they seem ideal - like fixing stud...

I am fairly certain its an I-bean on its side with the 'wings' of the I then straddling the block work above and below. The only reason I think it does that is to stop the "false" cavity from toppling inwards as it has no wall ties with the old stone work (or last I doubt it does) and is just on...

I'm not entirely sure. But the building is a solid stone/rubble wall construction. This particular wall has been turned into a retaining wall (not by me!) and then lined a secondary block wall to effectively retrofit a cavity. I'm not sure why it needs steels (I think there is one on each...

I have a plaster concrete block wall which has a steel running through it; this has been plastered over. Over time the steel, under the plaster, has developed a surface rust and you could see where, even through the plaster and paint, and a crack had formed on the lower edge. I have stripped...

I like that, but I am actually wanting real wood up there. I was going to go with British Cedar. I'm looking into fire retardant coatings, and will also use plasterboard under as advised above.

Thanks, that's a good idea.

1970s is what I am going for ;)

I am creating a vaulted ceiling, rigid board insulation will be fixed on top of the rafters (forming an air gap with the slates). I'd like the final ceiling finish to be tongue and groove wood cladding. Probably running vertically, rather than horizontally. I'm just not sure how I'd go about...