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  1. M

    How to remove Grundfos UPM3

    Are the 4 allen bolts on the side facing the wall, ie the one I can't see? Or joining the black electronics box to the pump housing?
  2. M

    How to remove Grundfos UPM3

    thanks for your answer - my questions was whether the male parts of the Grundfos will allow it to be removed from the arms attached to the manifold - as they can't bend upwards and downwards to give clearance
  3. M

    How to remove Grundfos UPM3

    Hello, how do I best remove this Grundfos UPM 3 which is blocked please? There is no give on the horizontal arms either side of it so I think I have to start dismantling more - but what's the "right way" to do it please? thank you.
  4. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    Last question - the Grundfos doesn't look like it will come out as there is no give in the horizontal pipes on the manifold. Any suggestions about the best way to remove it please? I could end up dismantling everything!
  5. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    Yes I can feel it engage, and depress the spring to engage. It doesn't want to turn anti clockwise and it feels like it's jumping out of the head so I don't want to continue and risk stripping it. I've looked for videos to see if you can remove just the black "electronics" back part of the pump...
  6. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    Thank you very much for your help on the Nest
  7. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    Good news: I jumped the grey and yellow/green in the Heatlink and the boiler fired. It also seems to have "unstuck" whatever electronic glitch had been happening and Nest 1 is now controlling the boiler again. Bad news: the Grundfos is still stuck and short of swapping it out, I'm not sure what...
  8. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    1) there is a grey wire I missed, coming out of the Heatlink into the junction box 2) here's the open Heatlink
  9. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    Thank you for your reply. The Heatlink has an earth, brown and black coming into the junction block. I've looked at the Nest instructions but can't tell what should happen to these wires afterwards and how they should be linked to the zone valves and incoming 240v supply, so any advice would be...
  10. M

    38CDI: doesn't fire on heat demand, and Grundfos UPM3 stuck

    The cold snap made me switch heating on for first time in 6 months which has caused 2 unrelated problems on a well maintained Worcester Bosch 38CDI. Grateful for any advice on: 1) boiler doesn't respond to Nest thermostat 1's call for heat, either wirelessly or on manual override next to the...
  11. M

    How to cut architraves lengthways?

    Ah..but I can't find a company to cut new matching architraves to the required size..as that would be ideal
  12. M

    How to cut architraves lengthways?

    Hello, I need to cut 2m architraves lengthways after replacing a window, down the red lines as shown. I have a jigsaw and mitre saw but can't see how to use either of these to get a perfectly straight cut. How would a professional do this please?!
  13. M

    Does a Worcester Bosch 38CDI need wiring centre for 2 zones?

    I have one more question: is it correct that the 3 core 240 power supply to the boiler (which is currently being switched by the one Nest attached to it) will be replaced by a 4 core mains+switch cable? The builder is telling me this but I don't understand why this is yet. I though the boiler...
  14. M

    Does a Worcester Bosch 38CDI need wiring centre for 2 zones?

    Hello. Slight breakdown in communication between plumber, who installed a new 38CDI combi to power existing CH and HW, and builder who installed wet UFH and manifold ready to connect to the boiler pipework. "Old" part of house has 14 rads, new UFH loop in kitchen is about 150m long. Plumber...
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