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Maybe this was a similar named product I’d seen in the past. Hmm the room in question is the only way between the kitchen and rest of the house so I’m going to need to find a way to cross it without transferring black goo around the whole house then

My room is approx 5x5m and has a poured concrete floor which I believe has no damp proofing - signs of damp and mould in the existing underlay. I'm redecorating the room and thought a liquid DPM would be a good option. I was looking at DryBase's product which seems good but is quite pricey when...

If you're smashing around with a big hammer you could just use it on the door, most are woefully insecure

I most cases, breaking in is not hard even if the door is locked. I don't know how much difference it realistically makes. If you are concerned a keybox advertises the house is often empty, or that a key is accessible, I would suggest making sure the keybox is not immediately visible.

In a building I own, there is large plastic trunking used around the edge of the room to run cables and it also acts as a skirting (picture below). I am struggling to find out what exactly this is called and where to get it, because I want to do the same in my utility room where various pipes...

I have 3 wall lights in my bathroom, one (just) within Zone 1 above the bath has failed.. I somehow doubt it is up to code based on the previous owner's other 'improvements" :) Because it's right on the edge of Zone 1 height-wise, I'm happy to consider IP44 which I understand is acceptable (IP65...

pretty cool. I have some lower-enpansion foam (Soudal genius gun) I was going to use for skirting-board gaps, reckon that would do the trick to avoid opening a whole extra tube just for a few quick blobs?

Never heard or have thought about that, quite interesting

Interesting, thanks. I don't know for sure about all but at least some of them are lathes, there are original ornate covings. how wide do you want the gap to be ideally?

My old house has cracks in quite a few ceilings, typically 1mm or less - historic movement typically it's an old house. Japped hairline cracks but just too big for regular paint to reliably fill, and too small for regular filler. I figured before repainting these rooms, I would like to have a...

it's not like they are going pop all the time (though they weren't all LED and I'm repalcing the old ones as they fail) but perhaps you don't have 8 of the darn things in your loft, or you don't go in there much ;) I lived here 10 years so even the first LEDs I put in (last owner had none) are...

In my loft, every time you pull a Gu10 bulb from the fitting, you get a small pile of dead wasps/flies falling on you - the loft invariably gets a nest each summer. I'd like to replace them with sealed units if such a thing exists - I've seen fire-rated enclosures, are these what I should get...

oh, interesting. Makes sense to use something to 'tack' it in place.

These are radiator pipes in the kitchen & family bathroom so it sounds like it doesn't gain me much then. Thanks

During some renovations I've exposed some CH pipes that were boxed in. They're modern plastic ones and due to the nature of it being an old house, they seem to loop all over the shop. Is lagging these pipes before re-boxing going to make a significant difference? I guess the heat that's...

Yeah I'm considering it but I'll still need to attach it

regular old rawlplugs - drill through into ther brick and use longer screws?

I've tried this sort of thing before and never quite found it as instant a grab as advertised. But perhaps that's because none of my walls were flat before?

I've had my old victorian brick walls stripped back and the original plaster was now replaced with dot'n'dab. I need to re-box pipes which run along the floor and up in the corner, and I'm not sure the best way to affix it to the wall - I've worked with solid walls and with stuf walls but not...

All the walls are solid 75mm timber. To clarify I don't want a sound-proofed room, I just want it to be as acoustically insulated as if there wasn't a massive hole in the wall. So it seems like regular insulation wool (non-glass) sandwiched as you and others have said is the obvious answer. I...