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Be warned I was a roofing contractor in the UK for 30 years and we used to do work for one of the Biggest roof cleaning/re-colouring company’s . If there company name starts with roof and the last beings with Doc , then the coating that they seal the roof with is just water based and is good...

Yes the copper strip works ,but don’t be thinking it will work straight away it takes time . Its best to get the roof cleaned off at the same time you fit the copper strip

Sadly for you it looks like the roof has had to many £140 repairs done to it You need to get quotes from two or three reputable roofing contractors But be prepared , it may not be what you wont to hear You can only make so many temporary repairs before its time to spend some money and not...

If you let him weld the split make shore that you have the fire departments phone number to hand !And that he waits around for at lest an hour to make shore that he did not catch light to the valley boards . The best way is to cut the lead and insert a new piece the width of the valley ,up...

"How you gonna allow for expansion of the 21 meters of lead " We used these and they work well have a look at the 2nd page http://www.leadroof.org.uk/media//pdfs/LSA_Bulletin_Gutter.pdf

Ask to see the BBA for the chinese slate :lol:

Slates are not nailed at the top they are nailed on both sides just over half way up . The top of the slate rests on the next batten up from the one that it is nailed to . The clips or tingles or copper disc should be fitted in the course of slates bellow . (ie) once you have nailed a slate...

Dave the only advice I can give you is to practice as much as you can on some scrap lead I always use oxeye cetaline with and O2 nozzle kit and a number 2 to 4 nozzle . Cut a thin strip of lead about 4mm thick to make a welding rod , with your heat be gentle and try and get heat into the...

“Round here slates have to be nailed top and bottom or they come off in gales. We have to use copper or stainless nails.” You mean you clip the bottom of the slate and don’t nail them :wink: :wink:

You only wedge and mastic the edge that turns into the wall, the rest is dressed tight To the brick work. Remember the edges that run down or up to the next turn in must Run back and not vertical or forward . I would do as you have said and run the lead so that it sits tight to the bar...

The essayist way to do it is to use cooper earth wire fixed to both sides of the ridge just drill and plug screws into the ridge and rap cooper wire around the screw to clip to the cooper wire run . You should run along one side and then up and over the ridge and back down the other side and...

If you are having a facia board it should fit flush with the outside edge of the top of the facia board .Dependent on what type of tiles you have depends on how far up the roof You can take the fillet . If you are not having a facia board then 4mm of tilt fillet will not be enough

If you are going to have a facia board its to stop the felt sagging so that any water that gets behind the tiles/slates will run out into the gutter and not make the felt sag and rot your timbers.

Just put a ladder up to the gutter of the roof and push up the second tile as far as it will go and then push up every other tile up the roof it will give you somewhere to put your feet and then the tiles will just pull back down when you have finished. But don’t put your feet through the felt...

If the slate are artificial the slates should stay in place and only drop slightly. But you will need to cut through the fixings that hold the facia boards on and lower them not pull them forward ,You should still be able to slip new felt under the existing felt up to the bottom of the under...

Do you mean cooper ,as complete ridge dressed as lead as a roll top . Or do you mean fixing a cooper strip to the top of your existing ridge ??

Use a multimeter If you have any other French related questions and don’t get the results hear you could try these sites http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/ http://www.totalfrance.com/france/forum/index.php They are both very good

@Redtogreen from your photos I can see that they have used the EDZ flashing It should have been the EDP. Velux used to recommend the EDZ for plain tiles up until about 4 years ago then they came out with the EDP just for plain tiles . We used to notch the battens 10mm to get the flashings...

The velux window could have been fitted to high The flashing kit could have been fitted incorrectly or the wrong type Or the roofer was lazy and did not nock the nibs of the back of the tiles Or said roofer has taken the tiles to far over the fashing units witch on some flashing units Have...

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