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Planning on getting quickstep LVT click for my bathroom and will level the floor with some ply, but do I need underlay for this and can I get away with some generic foam 1mm rather than the propretary stuff they sell? Also, it should be okay to put a toilet on top of this flooring yes?

Okay so I can use the mac-3 cast iron connector along with this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wc-f26r-flexible-wc-pan-connector-white-97-107mm/71219 cast iron connector goes inside soil pipe, then flexi wc connector connects this to the toilet itself? should mention the WC outlet and...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAC-3-Cast-Iron-Pan-Connector-WC-Connector-for-Cast-Inside-Diameter-approx-80mm-/251336366230? Looking at this connector again it seems that it might not work on my soil pipe as it's wider than the 110mm WC connector I have at the moment.

I will need to extend it as the toilet will not reach the cast iron pipe

Thanks, so would the first connector linked be sufficient to use with a toilet connector or would I need the second also? or is the second what a plumber would use to connect to a pvc pipe? Also is there anything I could use to conceal the soil pipe without getting a joiner to make some kind of...

It's got wooden floorboards. beneath that I'm not 100% sure of the construction but I think it's just wooden joists and cavities

Oh that was unrelated as had to do with the intercom - silly me. Could a fuse have tripped on the socket?

I'm looking to replace my toilet in my 1970's build flat but I think I'll have a serious issue with the way the toilet is currently set up. I have a very old very disgusting cast iron soil pipe coming through the floor by around 3-4 inches which is connected to my toilet via a plastic...

The buzzer is now working, and I believe for the socket what has happened is the dust from when he tore down part of my ceiling as gotten behind the tile the socket is embedded in and interfered with the electrics. Or perhaps the dust and debris have gotten in to the socket itself? I'll need to...

would the costs of an electrician ever be covered by the workman in this case?

yes as tight as i could get it

I had a plasterer in to redo two of my ceilings in the kitchen and bathroom. Now that the work has been completed a socket in my kitchen and my front door buzzer (I live in a block of flats) no longer work. Is this moisture related? Problem is things should have dried by now as the plastering...

okay guys thanks for your help. wiring sorted as per the pic attached - hopefully this won't blow up in the middle of the night!

Okay, I've had a go and I can't get the screw in the pic to screw in any further leaving too much space between the screw head and the point of contact therefore the ring terminal does not fasten in tightly. I think this is because the screw is hitting the upper part of the conduit and there is...

It was already like that as it was taken from the bathroom light wiring. I'll give it a try as it seems easy and safe enough to do myself.

It's blue - pic attached

Basic question, how would you go about attatching a C-shaped ring terminal to the above screw shown in the attached image? Would it be safe to even attempt this?

I actually have one of these ring terminal crimps shaped like a C, would it be possible for me to fit this myself or is an electrician required? There is some kind of screw thing attached to the box above the ceiling that I could screw it on to.

Bathroom is exact same situation but with a plastic light instead. actually I think the hole in the ceiling is even smaller in the bathroom. Are there any alternatives to wago that are smaller?

OK thanks for your help. Kitchen light is a strip with 5 spot lights. The bathroom light fitting would not be able to house the connectors though, I take it they can't go up through the hole either?