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I laid the flat roof then fiber glassed the top of the hip tile to the roof. Not got a photo of that though. Not ideal for maintenance I guess.

Yes this makes sense now, lead soakers would of been the way to do it. Should I cut back this fiberglass here to allow water to escape over the tile (Like what I've done with the above tiles)? Then cover all 3 tiles in lead, dressing it over the side to the flat root?

I need to buy some lead for the flashing on the other side and will have enough left to do what you suggested. Thanks for you help appreciated.

Hi, I'm not sure if I've done this detail correctly. Should I be fiberglassing under the tiles or like what I've done? I tried to copy what was done on the previous felt roof. I'll be add the third row of tiles back against the lay board. Just a be concerned water is going to get under the grp...

First time installing a dry hip system. Do I need to mortar the first tile in? I've drilled and attached a screw to the centre of the tile and the iron is holding it pretty good. How would I finish and seal the top tile? Going for a fiberglass flat roof. Many thanks

I'm going to be installing a grp dry valley myself, can I ask how you closed it at the top?

Thanks. It should all the the same height, I'm running the ceiling joists on top of the original wall plate to the new plate, level. I'm going to give it another go today with some offcuts. I'm thinking attaching offcuts at the bottom and top of the hip then running a line across the commons.

Would it be acceptable to notch about 20mm off the wall plate where the hip sits? Rather than cut more than a third off the hip? It's a side extension and I'm following what has been done on the existing building. The existing buildings hip has been cut beyond the 1/3.

Hi, I have a question regarding hip rafters and the height above the wall plate. I think it's called the up stand? Am I right in thinking that the plumb cut height (corner of birds mouth to top of timber) should be the same for hip rafters and common rafters? Am I only allowed to take 1 3rd...

Thanks. There is a couple of days forecasted for 5/6 degrees at midday and sunshine at the end of this week. I might giving the topcoat ago then.

I wonder if anyone could tell me if it is ok to leave my roof without the topcoat? The roof is watertight and has had 600g CSM and resin. The weather is getting colder now, do you think it would be better to wait till it gets warmer to apply the topcoat, how long can I leave it without it? Thanks

Thanks, it's quite difficult getting a response from him now. I can't see why slip ties would be needed, cavity wall construction brick and block on to 1930s brick and block house.

I'm not sure if they are needed though. Is it common place to just use standard wall starter kits?

Do you think the movement joint on the plans is for some sort of vertical movement tie rather than horizontal movement joint. Is there any problems with cracking using wall starters?

I'm building a double storey side extension, the plans specify movement joints where the extension meets the house. Is this required or can I just use standard wall starter kits?

Thank you for your reply. There isn’t any breathable membrane behind the timber sarking. Just replace with standard plasterboard then without any insulation in the gap? House is in Kent.

I’ve had to remove the lath and plaster from the ceiling and side wall as there was an old roof leak. Can I insulate between the rafters? I’ve read I should leave a 50mm gap behind the insulation for ventilation and to stop any condensation. Should I use an insulation board for this? Thanks...