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this is ground temp on a farm in yorkshire at 10cm.

Like I said, possibly overkill for a fence post. But while moisture is present and full strength hasn't been achieved there is a risk of cracking. The bag says minimum 10C for a reason.

Thanks for the replies. I phoned Hanson and they told me they produce two types of postmix - fastset and postfix. Both go hard in under 10 mins. fastset contains high alumina cement, postfix doesnt. I have the postmix which is fine to use with the frostproofer. I added 250ml to the water...

Thanks for the replies. The additive was only £5 and the postcrete instructions said min 5 degrees C. When I bought it I thought I could just throw a bit in for extra protection.

I've just noticed it also says Do not use with high alumina cement :rolleyes: but Sika make another product called wintermix that doesn't have this limitation.. It has the same dosage rate so the question is still valid. at 2.5 litres per 50kg, this would work out at 170ml for 3.3 kg cement...

I need to replace e couple of fence posts and with it being cold at the moment (2C daytime and -3C night) I planned to add a bit of Sika Frostproofer to the postmix. I have hanson postmix which requires two litres of water. I plan to quickly mix in a flexibucket then chuck it in the hole...

thanks, makes sense. I have sharp and builders. I'll do some test mixes with both

thanks. Previous experience with the synthetic stuff has put me off it. When we moved in the synthetic pointing was already coming out - patio was only 1 year old. I removed it all my repointed with sika fast fix. Followed the instructions properly and tamped it down really firm. It was still...

I'm re-laying a 3 yr old patio that looks like no primer was used on the back of the slabs. The bed is full and solid, and you can see the grooves from the slabs in the mortar. The mortar seems to have just come away from the slabs leaving them clean. to re-lay I'm using SBR:water:cement as a...

easy shim will only bring the floor up 15mm. The remaining 25mm is too much for a z bar?

New bathroom fitted with UFH, so the floor is no longer level at the transition. There is about 40mm between the top of the tiles and the floor under the carpet. I've used carpet ramps before, but they only seem to go up to 18mm. And stepped transition strips max out at 20mm as well. e.g...

I found a local carpet fitter that fitted it for £30. He said it's a really tough carpet to fit diy - very heavy duty so needs a lot of force to stretch. And the kicker I had was cr@p - it didn't grip deep into the carpet and was too short so had a tendancy to pull up. He used a power stretcher...

I think that it possibly the issue. I was concentrating on the knee part and not so much the pressure. Likely my technique wasn't great

It's spaced at 6mm to begin with but moved it to 10mm when I put the shims under

so does heavy duty carpet. This is a Cormar 100% wool loop. Apparently good quality

Doesn't look very nice

I thought that too but when I test an offcut of carpet on the grippers it's fine. Also not a thick carpet I think long pin might poke through

I'm trying to fit a new carpet and struggling. I'm using 12mm plushwalk underlay so have fitted the grippers with a slight shim to bring them flush with the underlay. The carpet is a heavy duty wool loop, and the backing is very stiff. Other carpets I've fitted and all the videos I've seen are...

I have a Conceala 2 cistern I want to install behind a stud wall. I have previously done the same but with the ProSys 120 cistern. From my understanding the prosys is designed so all the cistern components can be replaced though the flush plate hole. The conceala 2 came with a small push button...

On second thoughts, putting the WC on its own connection to the stack, capping the original pan connector, but keeping the horizontal would require the least work.