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Thanks both. If I’m unsure whether or not it is cement rather than like mortar, are there any issues in the ‘wrong’ one being used to do repointing? Would it react or come away where it joined for example? thanks

Hello all, I’ve a few areas of repointing to be done at the ground floor level. Some of the mortar has come loose/ fallen out and in total there’s roughly maybe 5 meters to do, across approx 25 odd ‘patches’ of between 1-5cm I’d rather a professional take this on, but given it’s a pretty...

Seems straightforwards and one less job to do then. thanks

Simple one, hopefully. I’ve had to replace a couple sections of pine flooring due to a leak. I will be covering with ply and then vinyl / LVT (I’d rather have a wooden floor but half the room’s floor is concrete so I can’t…) I’ve covered with a boron treatment to protect from dry/wet rot -...

So the floor is drying and continuing to read <10% moisture across the boards. I'm now wondering whether or not to replace the nastiest boards given they’re not soft or rotting, just showing white and stained patches. They’ll be covered up with new ply and vinyl so the looks aren’t important...

Thanks @JobAndKnock for taking the time to write such detailed replies. The boards have maybe 9 inches beneath them and there is an airbrick that is functioning so it may be most of the water was able to drain off below…. As soon as I realised the floor had some kind of water damage I ripped...

Thank you both very much for the replies. The board removed looks like it’s suffered water damage, but I’m not sure it’s actually ‘rotting’ - be it wet or dry. I will keep running the dehumidifier and get a treatment applied ASAP - hopefully there will be a minimal amount of wood to cut out...

I’ve moved into a new property and discovered a long standing leak in the kitchen. I’ve lifted off two layers of vinyl and exposed the pine floorboards beneath, and after getting in a pair of fans and dehumidifier and running them for three days I thought that things may be salvageable...

Agreed the pictures aren't great - unfortunatly I didn't get any better ones. Hopefully large building costing £100s of thousands isn't about 140sqm... :| The dust does look consistent with the tiles, but the area at the gable end with blackened wood with white patches does worry me a little bit.

And one more here which doesn't look great... Difficulty is now knowing what a typical cost may be for sorting this, if it's £2k or £20k :|

That is really concerning - on further look at this photo perhaps it isn't tile dust I'm looking at

Thanks - there are a couple of areas where it's got a hole in it. Not sure if they can (or should) be patched up internally if the whole thing can't be replaced? Will get a closer look at the timbers etc - I couldn't see any damp from looking. The orange dust is curious but unsure if it's also...

Hey folks, Hoping for some advice, please. I've offered on a 1930s built property, and as far as I can tell from the outside, no tile replacement has been done (judging by the other houses on the street - most are showing the same patina/colouring on tiles) Now, when I went into the loft...

Thanks @Tigercubrider - that sounds like it could work though I'd be looking to build out brickwork. Sounds like it may be do-able, after all I suppose it's at the rear of the garage. Other option is this I suppose (no, I don't drive a truck!!)

Hi folks, I'm looking at making an offer on a property that ticks a lot of boxes. Except one. The garage is too short. The area I'm looking at, they're almost always not wide enough, but unfortunatly this one would be perfect if it wasn't around 0.5-1m too short (approx measurements at this...

Yeah agreed - it's pretty nasty to be honest. It looks better in a different colour but the texture is pretty naff. There's a large piece that's already coming away but no idea if/how difficult it would to strip it from the whole house, or better to render smooth over the top....

Thanks @jeds - usefult to hear what people reckon. I agree the join doens't look great. Is this a potentially costly repair, or something that could be tolerated for a year or two? The house is good and suits but I don't want to spent a few grand off the bat to get things in order (of course...

Thanks for the reply - I do know the rust stains are only on the extended part of the property - which I thought may be a concern if it's approx 15 years old (if the wall ties may be corroding) Clearly I'm no expert but you'd have hoped they'd be stainless, even 15 years ago. Good point that it...

Thanks for the reply @JohnD - the council inspected it after completeion approximately 2007-2010. I have seen the certificate and it was signed off to conform with building regs at the time. This house is not in a mining area and I know the soil is chalky (South Downs area, and I've seen the...

Hey - First post, long time lurker, so I was hoping someone may be able to provide some advice please. I'm looking at a house, and like a lot of people, am slightly hesitant to spend on a survey as there's already one thing that does strike me as a bit odd. An extension was added in the last...