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OP, Presumably, you now know where (if any) your pipe & cable runs are in the floor? The 18mm chipboard must be firmly screwed down to the joists and no movement present. A few holes in the c/board are irrelevant. Then glue/screw down the backer board to the joists thro the chipboard. As above...

You can sand the paint to roughen it up but if its soundly fixed then you could use SBR primer instead of sanding. To take up a few mm's out of plumb then comb the wall with adhesive and butter the tile, and you should be able to straighten the surface out. Constantly use your level both ways...

OP, no pic.

OP, Have you taken into account that all fixtures (eg. the WC) and skirtings will end up in a high FFL? ie. your finished surface will be much higher than now? Your FFL will also be high at the door threshold. The 5mm ply is incorrectly screwed down. You should match screw all joins 20mm from...

Why not get a Residential Gas Safety Certificate inspection from a Gas Safe engineer? This thread would do better in the plumbing forum.

OP, If the surfaces are consistent planes, and sound then dont do anything else - just tile away.

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OP, On the pitched roof: Snap back the gutter clips to release the gutter - lower it to the ground Prise out the nails holding the two wood fascia boards - lower them to the ground. Its possible that the fascias have been fixed to a wall plate or rafter tails. Look for the remains of any roof...

OP, Skim sets in hours. Paint the boards. Pre-paint the wood, picture rail. Having measured from a known point eg an inside corner to the first stud - you now know all studs are at 16" c/c from the first stud. Any investigation holes in the board would be irrelevant, the rail will cover them...

OP, Ignore the nonsense suggestion that you demolish a chimney stack in a 300 yr old house. Why not post pics of all the damp locations - all active or blocked fireplaces - the stack(s) & mortared up pots - the air bricks on all three levels?

We've never had the least difficulty in cutting pipework in trenches - using a Stihl 14"cut-off, or a Recip Saw with various brands of excellent blade choices eg. Milwaukee or Tiger - or if needed the chain, snap-cutter. Recip blades will cut HD cast iron and salt glaze.

According to your pics, & with limited information, the problem is most probably a failed Bressumer Beam. In earlier posts I've advised OP's on why they fail & how to fix the problem - search my user name and "bressumer beam" in the search box. Dont let it put you off buying the house, its a...

Ask mods to move your thread to plumbing. As for your question - do nothing until the new WC arrives. Typically, the WC pan becomes a template for fixing to the floor - not the drawing. Set the pan (in a slightly new position, perhaps) & dry fit all pipe and fittings - check-mark all...

Post #19, Nonsense. What precisely is "a nightmare" in doing a simple carpentry job? Can you tie your shoe laces or do you call in a specialist?

Still no pic of the inside? As my above: you blend in the new render to the old render. The higher extension render is looking very cloudy suggesting damp.

Post #15, I am concerned that you seem a bit too excited, worked-up kind of thing - have you had a bad Oggie?

Diver Fred, I have no knowledge of what "one-man-bands" charge in London. But for one person, Pimlico Carpentry services (a large company) charge £95/hr. Can't recall the name but there's another emergency carpentry services company (as they style themselves) in central London that uses...

Post #11, Yes, you are ignorant of joinery but well quick at googling - too quick maybe. You post very bad posts. But do a very good grovel. So, apparently you are experienced at something? BTW: there are six words - not five. Neither does "some" mean "all".

Yes, that roof looks safe - try and put your weight over the joist. Dont work alone - have a mate below. Use, say, a 300mm tape to cover a number of troughs - run it from top to bottom of the dodgy overlap.