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yes, I have just been reading up on bsp sizes. I am a metric kid (born 71) and it is things like this that really confuse me give me a M20 bolt any day. But now I understand that I will go back to the plumb centre and get what I need. Thank you for all your help. I really appreciate it...

yep I've removed the existing tail, I am confused that 20mm is 1/2" but I am happy if that is the case. .

I am thinking this would solve any issues. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/34-to-12-bush-for-radiator-p-580.html it will mean my radiator can use a 1/2" tail and then almost any trv will fit.

thanks for your patience. the radiator has a threaded hole for the tail that is I assume 3/4" (approx 20mm) , the copper pipe from the boiler is 15mm. . the tail that is currently fitted has a male 3/4" thread and a self sealing 1" nut. I want a trv body and tail that connects the...

I'll go back to the plumb centre tomorrow, now I know a bit more, and either get the correct one or get a refund. I should be able to get a 3/4" tail outlet with standard 15mm compression, do you think?

the Drayton has the same fitting to the copper pipe. the photos were of the Drayton. if I could get a TRV with a 3/4" tail fitting and 15mm compression that would solve my problems, but the plumb centre said this was the only one with the 3/4" tail fitting.

Drayton TRV4 integral head with 1/2" angle 07 05 153

a Drayton 247406 trv integral head with 1/2" angle. 0705153

the tail thread is 3/4". this was the only TRV body I could buy that had a 3/4 inch connector to the radiator. I guess I can replace the tail, but then I need to get the old one out. that is a different issue. it doesn't have a hex key to remove it, it has two lugs.

so is it a DIY job? can I buy a flarer? is it going to be cheaper to buy a new radiator tails and TRV?

Do what is a type B? What do I need to do to make it seal?

This is the male thread, as you can see there is no chamfer on the end. Then the female trv body. The male thread goes the full length of the female.

This is the original olive and the top of the pipe. I cut the pipe directly below the olive

That is my third attempt. The pipe doesn’t go into the fitting further than the olive so every time the olive bends around the top of the pipe. I will try nipping the olive before tightening, but I cannot help thinking this is not the correct part for the job.

I have a house with an old central heating system but new boiler. I have removed one of the radiators to decorate, the radiator has an old trv which connects using a 3/4” tail. When I came to connect it all back up there were leaks from the inlet copper pipe to trv body connection. On closer...

Actually not quite sorted... it occurred to me the original readings should've triggered intruder not tamper. Then I noticed the zone said 'not used'. I assume I disabled the zone one bleary eyed Morning at 3am when it was reporting a tamper. Anyway, set it to intruder and now we are sorted!!

I took the sensor off and tested it. It showed 1k and 2k. So I concluded it must be a bad connection. Wired the sensor back up and it is showing 1000 and 2000 on the keypad! Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

It is the cellar door. The door is closed and locked. The display is showing 13.58v 3570ohms When the door is open it is showing 13.58v and 5015 ohms When I short the wires it shows 0 ohms I will get my multimeter out in a second and test the sensor independently

Thanks for your replies. Whilst trying several ways I remembered my dad gave me an old tin saying impact driver. I never really new what it was for but something told me to try it. It turns out to be the ideal tool for the job.