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Ok alright. So you're thinking all the joists are running parallel to the roof. Say if they are, can I just take off the edge plate (the one that I could see behind the facia) and put the concrete lintel in its place

Didn't understand the 1st question? There is a piece of timber right above the doors running parallel to the doors behind the black fascia

I haven't taken off the facia to have a proper look at the timbers but I bent the facia outwards a bit and from underneath I saw a piece of timber running parallel to the fascia and I assumed it had joists meeting it at a 90 degree angle (so running backwards from the doors)

Could you send a link of something appropriate? The doors are 2400mm wide

Behind the fascia there is a piece of timber going horizontally across. I think underneath that there is a thin slither of timber probably put in to act as a lintel. The doors I have ordered are the exact same size as the existing ones shown. Surely somebody's got a suggestion. Breaking the...

Yes

No the wall is brick but the aesthetics is not an issue now.

Yes but whats the solution without the window head being lower

He believes that's what is required and we've already agreed to do it

Hello, I am going to be removing some old doors and intalling a set of upvc sliding patio doors (2400mm w x 2100mm h). The property owner has said that there is no existing lintel and he wants a lintel installed (We'll be installing a concrete lintel). I have ordered the doors the same size as...

Hey, thanks for getting back to me. No internal cladding, Plastered and decorated on the inside. Externally it's sheathed in 75mm pir x 11mm osb and then cladded. And we build up from the concrete base, with insulation board and a finished tile floor

Hello, What is the proper and most cost effective way to do a foundation if you are looking to have a flush floor finish with external ground level while bearing in mind some form of dpc is needed This is for a steel frame garden room (single storey outbuilding). So I.e. no subframe above...

What is the correct wall build up here? With trying to insulate on the outside of the frame?

What's wrong if the cladding is fixed just to the osb(ply you were referring to). Will it not be secure enough. Because I was planning to have the pir fixed to the steel frame, then the osb just fixed to the pir (not all the way through into the steel), then the cladding fixed onto the battens...

Why do we need to forget about insulating within the frame? Also do I need to puncture all the way through the ply into the steel? Can't each layer of the wall build up just be fixed to the next layer?

I was going to fix 50mm pir to the outside of the frame, then osb to the outside of that. Then a Breather, then batten and Clad. My cladding was just going to be fixed to the battens, not all the way through the battens and the osb and pir to the steel. So why does insulating the outside of the...

So do you think the way the structure is currently designed would not work? That front plate perpendicular to the roof studs over the doorline is not acting as a lintel here in your opinion?

Why do you think that? If we insulate with pir on the outside of the frame and insulation with superglass superwall on the inside, plus have an internal Vapour barrier underneath the Plasterboard surely we would ensure the building is well insulated and avoids condensation? Also don't you think...

Hello! I am going to build a steel frame garden room (light guage steel) of size 6m x6m, with slimline sliding doors spanning the whole width of the front wall. There is essentially no steel on the front wall apart from where the side walls (150mm studs) come up to the doorline and past it on...