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Main thing to consider then is that the better you insulate the floor, the colder the loft will be. Might be OK if you're just adding a small amount, but worth thinking about other options - pipe lagging, etc.

Fire-rated LED downlights are widely available and should be safe to cover over with insulation, but you might have heat dissapation issues that could shorten the life of the bulbs.

Presumably this is not the case if you drop in something like Drayton Wiser? That would have the effect of creating room-by-room zones if desired. Or do the regs not really cover that sort of thing?

According to this manufacturer: https://www.celticsustainables.co.uk/loft-lid-fire-retardant-downlight-cover/ For halogen lights, they recommend putting the transformer outside the cover and above the insulation; For LED, they say it can go inside the cover.

It could just be a particularly cold spot - which would make it both most likely to attract condensation, but also feel cold to the touch. I guess you could try something like a wood moisture meter if you wanted to get some objective measurements.

Yes, I think you need covers. Even ignoring any possible fire risk, the LED lifespan will be much shorter if they run too hot. For the cables, I think the key thing is to make sure you've identified what they're for. Lighting cables - particularly for LED lights - are not going to be carrying...

Sounds more like condensation to me, as humidity can change quite rapidly with temperature and weather. Here's an idea: Grab yourself a pair of bluetooth hygrometers. Put one in the loft close to an affected area, and the other outside but protected from sun and rain. You'll be able to get a...

Nothing jumping out at me there - but I have no experience with this boiler so I'm just checking your work against the same manual you've got. Can you show the hub backplate wiring and the hub itself as well, for completeness? In your position, I would: 1. Run through the Wiser setup from...

Sounds like you've followed the service manual closely. As @stem mentions, make sure you've got the 1-2 link in place, too. I suggest posting a photo of the boiler-side wiring and the Wiser hub backplate so we can have a look over your shoulder. Can you also post a photo of the hub itself...

Are you sure you want to celotex the pitched roof? Do you need the roof space to be warm? Putting down another 200mm layer of insulation over the existing (with or without the chipboard) is very easy and cheap, and I would think it'd be easier to ventilate the pitched roof if it's not covered...

Surely better to leave the felt intact.

I've had success with flashband, using a heat gun and metal seam roller to apply. However, might be more difficult if the rip is right up against a rafter. If it's a very minor drip you might be OK just putting a tray underneath. If it ends up being a more significant leak and you can't patch...

Definitely sounds like a two zone system, which is what I figured you'd have for UFH. You probably need advice from a professional installer - or maybe someone on here has more direct experience.

Opentherm will control the flow temperature, but in my experience the "maximum" temperature is what I set on the boiler control panel. Other boilers might behave differently. It's possible that Opentherm simply communicates the percentage demand rather than an absolute number, or maybe the...

As far as I can tell, the set point you configure on the boiler is still used based on how I've seen it work. Wiser will call for 100% heat when there is a significant difference between the current and desired temperature (2+ degrees) and I believe this will result in the flow temperature that...

I had this done, and was pretty happy with the result. The roofer added 150mm of insulation on top of the existing felt (which acts as the VCL), fastened down, and then felted on top. Obviously added additional height but looked fine with the drip edge brought down to the original level. Edit...

It'll still use TPI (Time Proportional Integral) to cycle the boiler for progressively shorter periods to avoid overshooting the set point, but the boiler will fire up at the same temperature every time and then modulate down based on return flow temperature using the boiler's own logic. The...

A 40-year old boiler isn't going to be condensing, and will not include weather compensation unless you've fitted a smart thermostat (doubt it). I don't doubt that you're saving yourself capital expenditure by not updating, but you've done so by transferring higher heating bills to your tenants.

I'd take it from the junction box, which should have a 3 amp fuse. Not sure it matters that much though as long as it's a reliable power supply.

Not sure what the hard place is here. You have a legal obligation to provide working heating and your tenants pay for the upkeep by paying you rent. Stop being so cheap FFS. Get a modern condensing boiler with weather compensation. You wouldn't leave your tenants in a property with single...