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Hello fellow DIYers. I intend to install some solar panels on my roof in the next 3-5 years. I also happen to be about to start some works in my house, which present a unique opportunity to put a wire between my loft and my electrical meter and hide it within the walls. So, does anyone know...

Just a follow up: you are right, and the guy who came to do the annual maintenance confirmed that while there might be better solutions out there, if the manufacturer of the cylinder hasn't specifically approved a solution then the cylinder will fail the annual inspection. So, soz, I will be...

I am fully aware of the security features of unvented cylinders, and I am not planning to carelessly open up the cylinder and compromise its safety features for the sake of DIY. Plumbers are not always up to date with smart controls, and often times are allergic to anything that isn't similar to...

Hello fellow DIYers. In my house I have an unvented hot water cylinder with a thermostatic pouch 1/3 of the way up. In the pouch there is a probe attached to a thermostat that controls a valve on the primary circuit, whose dry contact is connected to the call for heat from my boiler. So far so...

Got it. Yes, I figured out as much. My problem seems to be that the stat is set to 50 but actually switches at 80, then a boiler flow temperature of 70 will never satisfy the cylinder stat.

What you say makes sense. However there is one important detail I omitted from my original description: I have a timer in series with the stat. The timer switches on 1 1/2 hour in the morning and 1 1/2 hour in the evening. So the cylinder stat is not constantly live, switching on/off, but only...

Hello fellow DIYers. I have a system boiler with UFH, the UFH manifold is set in an S-plan with a hot water cylinder. The cylinder has its own thermostat to switch hot water on/off as needed, which fits on a pocket. The stat looks like this: As you can see, the dial is set to 55C. And yet...

I can confirm that Vaillant cable 089419 is indeed the correct one to connect to the C1/C2 port inside the boiler.

SUCCESS!!! scw24489 you are an absolute legend. Your recommendation WORKS, I have just wired the cylinder's call for heat to the appropriate connector inside the boiler and voila' the boiler reads correctly the separate calls for heat/cylinder. No need for a VR66 or annoying extra wiring /...

Reeealllly? I will try that today, 100%. If it works it will save me 70 quid + 20W running all the time. It's on order.

Aha, but my setup is S-plan, so no 3-port valve to worry about being stuck in the wrong position. The two 2-port valves operate independently. The heatmiser wiring centre will still remain the brain of the system. It normally takes care of closing the UFH valve and Boiler contacts, that is...

What do you mean by "I can’t absolutely guarantee that the ebus DHW signal will take priority"? Do you mean it didn't work in your specific setup, or did you just put the relay in to have additional certainty that it would work as intended? Do you have a relay to suggest? Considering mine would...

Hi jackthom, and thank you for your reply. That thread is indeed very useful. In that thread, in post #21, the user "rbranco" mentions using the VR66 in this setup, so that would appear to answer my question #1 positively. However, everybody there seems to be using 230v RT. Any idea about 24v RT...

Hello all. I have a Vaillant ecoTEC Plus 630 system boiler, in an S-plan setup with a HW cylinder and a UFH mixing valve. All of this is controlled via a Heatmiser UF8-HF wiring centre. The Heatmiser boiler enable contact is connected to the 24v RT of the boiler. The Heatmiser wiring centre's...