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  1. J

    Flexible wood filler?

    You could possibly use CT1. It's more or less like a silicone but you can paint onto it. I've done that in the past and it works very well. I wouldn't say you can sand it but it's easy enough to get a good finish before it sets.
  2. J

    Securing an MFC board to the bottom of some kitchen wall units?

    Thanks for the suggestion. I've not used Mitre Adhesive before but I don't think that would be the right approach because the board that needs fixing is quite large (2.1 metres by 28cm) and the bottom surface of the cabinets is not 100% flat/smooth due to the construction of the cabinets (see...
  3. J

    Securing an MFC board to the bottom of some kitchen wall units?

    I've almost finished fitting my kitchen and I plan to fix an MFC board to the bottom of a 2.1 metre run of wall units to make it look nice and neat (and also to accommodate an LED light strip which I will recess into the MFC). Ideally I want to have no visible fixings on the MFC board and...
  4. J

    Glueing engineered wood floor to riven Slate tiles?

    There's definitely not a decoupling mat (I can see that from partially removing one tile) I realise the pipes would be in the screed. I was just unsure how deep, and how much abuse the screed would take from an SDS tile chisel before I'd risk damaging the UFH. You think that would be ok? I...
  5. J

    Glueing engineered wood floor to riven Slate tiles?

    In my ground floor kitchen, I currently have a riven Slate tiled floor, laid onto a concrete screed with wet underfloor heating. It would be extremely difficult to take up the tiles, with high risk of breaking the UFH pipes (I tried removing a tile and they are VERY well adhered!). Therefore...
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