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Morning all, Had a bit of a change of plan and i'm thinking of adding 50 mm PIR .I'm going to build away from the cavity wall as such. 50mm PIR fixed to the wall Breather Felt 25mm air gap batten Cladding I've go to questions. Will treated fenceposts 75mm x 75mm be good enough as the main...

I had similar problems plus the chimney was very old, had lead drip tray (or anything else) and it constantly leaked. Me and the missus got on the roof and took it down and tiled it over. Took around a day :) Plus if we decided we want a fire there again we can just build it up again.

Have you considered a dehumidifier? Had one recently and has made a difference in the house re-moisture. I bought some little humidification readers of Amazon (£5) and the average humidity was around 75-80%. Re-loft, looks like you need more ventilation up there, get some lap vents on both...

Morning all, Next problem to tackle. Old chimney was rendered years ago ( not sure when) and I had it stormdried 2 months ago but water is still tracking through the brick work and then running down the face inside the loft. 100% sure it is not a problem with the roof all soakers in place...

If you cant knock it down, overboard it but try and stagger the boards so that they don't correspond with the current cracks

Personally I'd overboard. Do you have access above to make sure there's no further problems? Skimming will just cause the same problem and will probs be worse due to the extra load.

Thanks gents, Tallest batten would be around 4meters. Thinking fixing every 300mm. Is that to much?

Evening all, Moving onto the next part of the house project. Will be fitting some external wooden cladding (19mm Waney edged Oak) to 2 of the external walls about 40sqm in total. Due to some brick returns I was going to use 50x50mm treated battens. Would hammer in fixings be the best fixings...

A bit different but enjoy all the light coming in. Will eventually get round to adding a rope banister... I think. Thanks for the advice as always!

Hi Mr Chibs. Strangely enough the south facing side had the first floor (only) rebuilt to have a cavity wall. When I had the roof done you could see the cavity and the wall ties (corroded). Will the cracks no expand from water ingress? Please ignore the lime run off, had to place some...

Might be worth mentioning.... There is a fair few of these, not just the 2 pictured. These are on the south facing side of the house.

Morning all, The ongoing DIY continues... Forever. Just looking for advice on frost damaged bricks. 1830's house with lime mortar. Is it best to chase the cracks out and point them? Or use a sealant to fill the gaps?? The house has recently had wall tie replacement hence the mortar lifting on...

Correct on all accounts JobAndKnock.

2*3 timbers at 14" centres.

Much appreciated chaps. Will defo be leaving it in situ and will work around it. Blood regs, I'll fit something in.

Cheers guys. This is how it's looking at the moment. To be honest I quite like the bare bones look Going to de nail it, fill the nail holes, sand and gloss then put the banister into the frame. Saves having to think of something else to do. Plus meets the wife's objective of letting in more light!

Matches on the far end of the wall.

Continuing up at the moment. Maybe used instead of nogs?

Cheers robinbanks. I've half a mind to leave all the timbers up anyway to make a kind of gallery with a banister running between them. But just wanted to see. Gutted we had to take the wall down but means we get light upstairs at last.

Started removing the lath and plaster and faced with this. I assume this is the A frame you mentioned Jeds?