Search results

Food for thought, thanks!

Thanks. You wouldn't just use joint filler?

Another photo as requested, nothing too exciting. (Marvel at my drylining)

I can't take one just now but there is only a switched live wire and 2 neutrals. My problem is the choco block is tiny and won't fit both neutral wires.

I don't have an earth wire going to the light unfortunately. Here's a pic

Would this mean it's no longer double insulated? This is the junction box that comes with the light. So presumably if I don't use this then the light becomes class I? https://www.diynot.com/diy/attachments/img_20180203_143932-jpg.135996/

I'm fitting a wall light and the choco block it comes with is too small for me to fit my existing wiring. Am I okay to use wago connectors instead and leave them within the light fitting? (It's a wall light against a block wall so there is not enough of a cavity to squeeze in a junction box of...

I boarded under the stairs and have a ~20mm gap where the wall meets the underside of the stairs. How best to fill? It's my first time jointing and feel I'd make a hames of it considering the tight angle. Maybe a small strip of coving? Any other ideas?

WC under the stairs, pipe supplies the toilet (goes under the concrete (wrapped in plastic) and up behind the waste pipe). I have to dot & dab the wall but I have a niggling feeling that I should do something with the pipe, even though it's probably always been there with no problem.

How easy are those thermalite blocks to cut with a hand saw?

Thanks again for all the responses. Noted about the PIR. I've removed the material that is there. I see that the concrete sill the window is sitting on in not actually flat. The void is about 100mm deep at the top but only about 65mm at the bottom. I guess that makes things a little awkward...

Thanks guys. As far as I can tell there's no lintel or anything below.

I'm gutting the understairs WC and I removed the internal wood sill to find a build up of concrete underneath that's crumbling and will pull away with zero effort. Not sure how to deal with it, should I just remove it and build it up with fresh concrete? It's roughly 720mm x 120mm x 100mm...

Yes that's the plan, the soil pipe is in the floor, approx 350-400mm in front of the existing wall. So the plan would be to have the soil pipe just behind the new wall. I don't plan on touching the soil pipe itself, it'll stay where it is.

That's the plan anyway. I'm in the middle of gutting it at the moment, so we'll see what's doable once the everything is exposed.

I want to make the most of the space under the stairs. The toilet currently has a reasonable gap between it and a large-ish cistern that is mounted on the existing stud wall. I want to bring that all forward, and add whatever space I save to the other side of the stud wall for under stairs storage.

Thanks, yeah the idea is to build a stud frame to suit. The metal frames are for wall mounting the toilet, isn't it? I'd rather keep expenses down, so happy to forgoe that kind of feature. It's for an under stairs toilet so not looking for anything too fancy :)

Can these be mounted within a stud frame? So far the few that I've seen that show instructions are mounted to a backing wall.

Thanks for the response. Yes, there is a slow drip into the pan, and the cistern 'tap' is opening regularly to keep it topped up. The banging happens when the tap turns off.

Hmm, on closer inspection it seems it might be the toilet cistern, looks like it might be the feed pipe to the cistern doing the rattling. Not entirely sure why though yet.