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Well, all is not lost......it turns out that the threads are O.K, and with the correct fitting, it tightens up no problem.......the fitting I was using was an old "Prestex" one that I found in me shed.....not one of my best ideas !!......

Thanks for that.....it's only the very first few threads that are damaged, so I might get away with it, if not then a new float valve is in order.......

Ok, Thanks.....so if I go for the Speedfit one, do I want 15mm x 12mm.....or 15mm x 19mm ?.........

O.k...Thanks for that.....just measured it again......18mm.......it's a Portland close coupled toilet, from Wickes......

Or this ?......I'm using JG Speedfit anyway.........

Mmmhhh....this might do the job......as long as the threads on the inlet are 3/4 BSPF........anyone know ?.....the other end is a 15mm compression fitting.......

Thanks for the replies.......it's just the very bottom of the threads, I just wondered if there was a fitting with longer threads that I could use......either brass or plastic...... the toilet is working at the moment, with a temporary feed, on very low pressure, but once connected up properly...

Now that the downstairs toilet is fitted, the time has come to connect the permanent water supply to it.......the thing is when I connected the temporary supply, I over tightened the conex fitting, and partially stripped the threads of the plastic pipe at the bottom of the close coupled...

Just been talking to a joiner friend, and he seems to suggest taking the 2" off the bottom, and then gluing the bottom rail back into place......any thoughts on this welcomed.....

Thanks for that.......it looks like I need to take 2" off......so 1" off the bottom, and 1" off the top ?..........

Hoping to hang this internal "Lincoln" door (I know them as Colonist) tomorrow......the question is, how much can I safely take off the bottom . I know they are like egg boxes inside, and just wondered how much I can safely take off ?

Thank You, Yes I know what you mean......I've tried drilling it with a hammer drill, and new masonry bits, to no avail, normally you can send a smaller bit through, and then enlarge it to the recommended 10mm......I did the floor some years ago, with self levelling compound onto the concrete...

Mmmhhh.....Thanks for that.....you have got me thinking now........

I suddenly realised, that with using those thin spacers, I wouldn't be able to get the bit of cushionfloor out from under the pan......so using one's about an inch thick, anyway it's out now, just got to get the sticky stuff and we can get it stuck down........

I'm just wondering if these spacers are thick enough ?.....

Well, so this is the plan......the toilet pan is in situ, so once I've removed the cushion floor underneath it, lift it a few millimetres (6mm) ? and apply the Sticks Like **** around the underneath of it, then gently lower the pan down onto it, and leave to cure.....luckily I haven't bricked...

Thanks for that......I suspected as much.......

O,k Thanks for the replies.....this might be a dumb question, the floor currently has Cushion Floor or Vinolay, or whatever it's called stuck to it, is it best to cut a bit out, like the shape of the toilet pan, so that the pan sits on the concrete ? or actually sit the pan directly on to the...

I should add, that there is a small lobby, between the kitchen and the toilet......

I'm told that Regs, have changed recently, and that now, when installing a downstairs toilet, off a kitchen area, you don't have to have TWO doors between them, providing that there is a hand basin in the toilet area..... is that correct ?......