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Just realised there is a kettle on the Rayburn. I'll find out if there is water in it. If so it might be giving off some steam all the time because Rayburns are also used for heating.

Extractor hood sounds like a good idea. Kitchen paint or Vinyl Emulsion?

Thanks, it's a Rayburn cooker, (commonly found in farm houses) They can give off a lot of heat. The cracking / peeling is worst nearest the Rayburn. I don't think she would want a dehumidifier but now she has the central heating on low most of the day the humidity is staying around 60% It will...

I'm not sure what's under. I think I will scrape off the loose paint, sand, then use Tetrion all purpose filler (ready mix tub) sand smooth, then mist coat with watered down paint. I'm not sure if I should use Johnstones trade covaplus matt emulsion or Dulux Easycare kitchen paint? There is...

Is it possible the flaking paint could have occurred if the tape had filler put over it and just painted over without a mist coat?

The owner of the property told me there was no peeling problems before a decorator put the tape over the cracks. Also it is a fairly modern bungalow and I thought distemper / limewash was only used in older properties?

The paint is only peeling at the joins in the plaster board. Apparently there was no issues with peeling paint until a decorator put tape over the cracks where the joins of the plaster board are. I'm guessing the heat and moisture from cooking on the Rayburn has reacted with the adhesive used to...

Ok, that doesn't sound too bad as long as it doesn't go over 70%

I'm certainly no expert but I have heard that some cavity wall insulation can cause damp problems. 65% humidity sounds a bit high especially if you say you've got a dehumidifier in the room.

Thanks, My local hardware store sells Berger non drip gloss, it has good reviews on Amazon, what undercoat should I use with this paint?( assuming the doors have indeed been primed with an oil based primer ).

Also it might be worth getting a damp meter / detector to make sure the walls are properly dry before decorating and to check that the problem is just internal condensation and not coming from anywhere else (through the walls from outside for example).

Moisture will always go to the coldest areas in the house, for example rooms with outside walls. You need to keep humidity levels permanently below 70% if it goes above that for prolonged periods mould will return.

Possibly ok as long as they haven't got frosted/frozen over winters in the garage.

That's great, be interesting to know what readings you get?

Dehumidifier is a good move. Also a cheap hydrometer to monitor moisture levels in the room/wardrobe. Must be kept below 70% humidity to help prevent mould from re-growing. A wardrobe with outside walls is a difficult area to keep mold free but as has already been suggested insulation should help.

I got a reply from the company that sells the doors, apparently they are primed with an oil based primer. Could I just paint them with oil based Dulux Once (I've read this acts as undercoat and top coat? I've had good results with Dulux Once in the past and find it's quite thick so doesn't run...

I would definitely buy at least one dehumidifier to control humidity levels on an ongoing basis. I guess hiring an industrial dehumidifier to dry things out quickly but if it dries too quickly it might cause cracks in the walls and ceiling so maybe not a good idea? Here a photo of my hydrometer.

Hi, you need to sort out your damp issues BEFORE decorating. I would suggest getting at least one or maybe 2 good dehumidifiers and put one in the problem rooms. Meaco make good dehumidifiers. If the rooms are heated get a compressor type they are quieter an cheaper to run than a dessicant type...

Ok thanks, can I paint Johnston's Trade aqua guard straight onto this? I have found it difficult to get a good durable finish with water based paint it dries too quick drags leaves brush strokes and seems to scratch off easily. I don't think I've ever used Trade aqua guard before though