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I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid. My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out...

So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive! The walls are being float and set. What’s the best way fill this gap?

We are having tiled floor as part of an extensive renovation so which way would you do it (all after ceiling and walls being plastered): a) tile floor > fit architrave/ skirting > paint all b) paint ceiling and walls > tile floor > fit architrave/ skirting (so they sit on top of the tiles) >...

Surely we're talking very small %'s for this to even be a concern?!

Sorry, this is lost on me. Why would a screw carry heat and why is that an issue?

That's a great idea. Just a long enough concrete screw I guess? Perhaps I'll do that for those that have more movement than I'm comfortable with.

I have laid 135 square meters of 90mm PIR in readiness for UFH next week, which will be followed by Cemfloor liquid screed. With a floor this size, I'm sure one can imagine the pig of a job this has been with cuts around doorways, walls, services, etc. :cautious: The floor is predominately...

What we're having/ Prefer the float and set method to avoid the wall build up. I appreciate the upstand isn't required for screed but what about building regs? "....25mm insulation to continue around floor perimeters to avoid thermal bridging". The underfloor heating kit comes with the...

I placed the red circle to be honest. The floor insulation isn't down yet - How I've understood it is that if the insulation is 100mm and screed is 50mm, cut the 25mm board to 150mm and place it before butting the floor insulation up against it. What I'm questioning is whether the insulation...

New screed floor being laid in new extension and existing part of the house. The walls are going to be float and set (not D&D plaster boarded). The internet suggests the 25mm PIR upstand needs to be installed up to the DPC level. Which is roughly where our screed will go up to as well. By the...

Doesn't 30mm seem a bit excessive? Given previously it would have been tiles directly on top sand cement plaster? I was thinking 12mm dot and dab or stuck with polyurethane glue and then mechanical fixings.

I have stripped our bathroom back to bare walls - removing the sand and cement plaster. We need to run new copper and waste pipework - both of which will come up through the floor, for all of the bathroom furniture and will likely be tight up against the wall. Two of the walls are bare brick and...

This looks like it might be a good finishing product. In my case the raised mortar would still be visible. Really needs to be removed first.

Any you've used that you'd recommend? The build up is quote a lot in areas.

Thanks - what I meant was a particular brand/ product that actually works. I see mixed reviews for various brick acrid/ patio cleaners

Sorry if this is in the wrong section but I'm looking to get some suggestions for an effective product to remove mortar from a tarmac footpath after our extension was done. Unfortunately the builder was a bit careless and didn't cover up the footpath. I've remove the snots it the flatter patches...

It's not a massive porch and that pushes the budget out considerably. We still have a lot to do inside the house so I guess I will just have to be patient. Definitely a very wet Jan and Feb as luck would have it. Unfortunately the weather forecasts have been extremely unreliable as well because...

And you can't see why?

I get it. But I am also worried that the bricklayer will try to do too much on days there is no rain and rush the job. Feeling like I'm in a no-win situation. Not knocking the builder as such either because the weather is what the weather is. Lesson learnt - don't do building work in winter.

Even under a proper oversized gazebo? I know it's not ideal but what would have taken 4 days to lay could be done in 6 days with a bit more care. But sooner - which benefits all. Of course I get that it would need the builder to be extra careful (which isn't most builders strongest skillset)...