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Hmmm, a fool and his/her (hey gotta be PC) is eaily parted. Imagine wiring a ring main in this-http://www.russandrews.com/lookup/1/region/UK/currency/GBP/customer_id/PAA1610102406432EHYELOCYOUPVQKSJ/product-Russ-Andrews-Superior-Ring-Main-1015.htm Might just ring him up and ask for approvals on...

... and outside... Proper way, FCU, preferably the rcd type, unless socket it is spured off is on an RCD already and in itself not a spur. Artic or H05/7 to light or conduit to light and then box and said cable to lamp, complete with all the various glanding and waterproofing. Check main...

Yep and also remember that it needs to be RCD protected outside unless it is in a untouchable position, ie requires steps. Oh and part p does apply as it is an Installation and not portable. :wink:

Hmmm, has been done by feeding a single non switched socket from a fused spur above the work surface. Isolation above and removable below.

of course you have remembered to install fire hoods too???

Don't forget the fire hoods... at a tenner a piece

Too many times seen people change a old wylex board with summat they got from scr**fix and then wondered why breakers start popping. A periodic is almost a must before you change the board to test all circuits coming from it. Of course you will be able to check if all the correct earthing is...

IMHO, when ever we have to time switch these, we Always get the timeclock to switch a relay or contactor, easier to replace an octal relay than the timeswitch! Only time switch that I know that would switch this is the old Samgamo round mechanical ones, even then, be prepared for a blue...

And yeh, it does happen. There is a 50 50 chance in any domestic dwelling that the meter tails are the wrong way round, if it is a TNS system, it should always be checked. The REC does not! BTW, Approved voltage indicator means FUSED test leads to relecent guidence note, ie 2mm exposed...

You can now buy plates from city electrical factors to put over notches in joists/rafters to comply with the regs on this matter. Prenailed too!

one method that has being used in the past is to sink a single box with a blank fitted over it with a suitable connector in it. Provides a handy joint to run that extra spur!

Bit of a bugbear this one. If you apply insulation on site, ie heatshrink or tape, then its integrity will need to be tested, as per the regs. you can buy proper cable joint kits. An alternative is to find if you can join the cable somewhere more accessable and run the cable in one piece through...

It may be prefrable to put the oven on its own circuit, certaily you may want to look at taking an FCU off the ring as this equipment Takes a lot of current

why not spec the new cct as a ring?