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Thanks to tavk! (On page 4) I have model WTW863S0GB/11 and there is no removable condenser, no secret flap. You have to dismantle the machine to get to the bottom reservoir and pump because it's in the middle of the machine under the drum.

It's looking like a run of 20m with 5-7 elbows for cold down to cylinder

you mean the cold feed from the cistern in roof to bottom of cylinder? thats a bit awkward, i'm planning to run just 2 extra pipes as i have a 22mm pipe running that way already, the three 22mm pipes would be DHW flow & return and cold feed to cylinder

thanks that's just what i wanted to hear That'll transfer heat away from the boiler quick enough and be fine for a circa 22m run to the coil?

I'm planning to move my DHW cylinder from a first floor bedroom to a ground floor bathroom. I intend to take the pipework from the exiting location up through the roof and down again. It is currently a gravity hot water loop and pumped CH, but obviously i'll be moving to fully pumped...

Am looking at replacing my 40 year old back boiler with a condenser. I have a couple of potential sites for it, but the best so far would be the bathroom, along with moving the DHW tank there as it would shorten the pipe runs for hot water (our bathroom is ground floor, behind kitchen, no...

bump (this is one fast moving forum!)

I'm thinking of having a new condensing boiler fitted it would most likely go in the bathroom (if not physically accessible from the bathroom then sited in the bathroom but accessible from the kitchen) i would like the hot water tank close to avoid long pipe runs to the current tank location...

ah ok, so literally just a cut in 1 pipe and a valve fitted and the rest is wiring

ah right, so you can only have a tank stat if you have independant dhw and ch? how much work is involved in changing to a c-plan? i guess everything needs to be drained out (including water tank in roof?)

I'm not prepared for the cost disruption of changing pipework right now regarding the tank thermostat, is it possible for me to fit one and if so, how do i go about it? I've googled but can't find a whole lot of information.

yes that is true, it's either h/w or both as an aside, would it be better to be able to have just heating? am i right in thinking the hot water produced by the boiler goes through the dhw tank before the radiators, or am i completely off the track there? if true, would the heating react...

well there is only one pump that i can see, next to the boiler

We've got an ancient back-boiler controlled by a danfoss controller (FP715 i think)

We don't appear to have a tank thermostat The boiler cycles when producing hot water but i guess its just using its own thermostat. If i buy a tank thermostat, how do i go about wiring it in? Thanks

ok thanks, i have a photobucket account so i will endeavor to upload pics tonight

well my house is 120 years old, so i've no way of knowing how old the electrics are i read the link and tried to understand as best as i could am i going to have to pay for an electrician to come in to tell me i do or do not have to move an earth on the water pipe? thanks

Thinking of getting a water meter fitted, the water board say i need to make sure that if i have an earth connection on my water pipe that it gets moved becase they will be breaking the connection by fitting plastic pipes. My jack-of-all-trades step-father informs me that if my electricity...

well we've just moved in (our first house)....don't think we'll be moving just yet

it is more than 5m from the house, it sits at the vary back of the property it is actually on the boundary on 3 sides, one side obviously goes to the garden, shouldn't imaginei'd get anywhere near to 4m tall i have never done any bricklaying before, i will hopefully get the chance to try...