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How does your alarm connect to the mains? Is it hardwired or with a 13a plug? If it's a plug, and it were me, I'd hire a generator rather than pay for an alarm "engineer" to come out twice. Added bonus being that you don't need to empty the freezer / fridge / live in the dark.

If you are in the market for a NAS, I'd take a look at ReadyNAS Duo from ebuyer. At £198 with 2 x 1TB drive (okay, so one's by redemption, but still), it's a pretty good deal...

Can you read the markings on the chip itself? IC3 is just the designation the designer of the circuit has given to the chip within the circuit itself, and doesn't actually tell you what it is or what it does.

Does the burnt out "chip" look a bit like this? Given that you say it's physically close to the power inlet, it's likely to be a voltage regulator. If you can read the markings on it then you should be able to order a replacement or equivalent. This isn't to say that this is the only...

Curiosity demands that I ask what the auger is for...

Something like this?

Presumably they returned the favour by inviting you to sit degree level exams? People have different abilities and skills. This variety is an advantage, not an opportunity for you to feel superior.

They're certainly smaller in volume, but a lot are bigger in one dimension or another, which could make it not fit. I don't see why we're assuming the DNO are being jobsworths, it's quite possible that the meter just will not fit.

Seems a strange solution, if you need to protect the UPS at 3a then the fuse should be in the plug feeding it. The output stage of the UPS will have its own internal protection.

I'd go back to the shop they came from, it's quite likely they should have been supplied with a transformer.

Sounds very much like a low voltage connector that should connect to a transformer. I've seen similar on other domestic lights. Does it look a bit like this? I suspect the light should have come with a transformer, or they sell one separately.

So tell us, what does it do?

Are you sure about the +24v to 7? Won't this effectively short across the closed limit switch, forcing RL3 to be picked all the time?

It's this one, if that helps: http://www.gepowercontrols.com/eu/product_portfolio/residential/consumer_units/cu_split.htm

I can't find a model or type printed anywhere on the outside of the unit. It came full of GE MCBs and RCD, so I'd guess it was GE.

Having been shown it, I'm going to purchase the replacement busbar at the same time as the RCBO. Out of curiosity I'd still be interested to know if there's anything wrong with my original method of doing this though...

Thanks RF, this MK busbar would be suitable for all CUs, yes? I assume the spacing is standard... While we're at it, does anyone know if it is possible to get insulated busbar? If so, does anyone know where I can get some?

Currenly have a 6+6 CU which is full to capacity. One of these ways (16a, on the RCD side) is used to supply an outside socket and (via a S/FCU) a floodlight. As with most outdoor supplies this has occasionally tripped the RCD, long story short, I'm intending to replace this MCB with an RCBO...