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Hi, Sorry late reply! Thanks for the help Notch, Good point on the overall roof thickness, it is the same :LOL: Sounds good to do what you say with the insulation, perhaps use 150mm timber/insulation instead of 170mm (filling in the ladders all the way to soffit), then go over complete deck...

Hi, Generally warm roofs don't require ventilation with a VCL. But I'm no expert Cheers

Perhaps take some more photos of the overall structure. Noticed you have a gutter bracket, but the guttering itself has been removed :unsure:

Hi, thanks for the help Good point on the joists being too small, its could be possible to run these in the other direction (2m) or perhaps double them up, but I'll check the trada tables for reference Thanks

Hi, Looking for some guidance on how to build a flat warm roof. I'm currently building a small extension (approx 3m x 2m) nearly up to wall plate height and now trying to design the warm roof construction. Many videos / guides they put the joists on top of the wall plate and then the deck, but...

Yes, all the ground floor will be blackjacked before battening ;) Cheers for the help

Hi, It's the original concrete slab (1960s) quite dry actually no damp, I've not laid any screed... But looks like I need to pour some 50mm concrete/ballast in some areas. After that, I am planning on installing a liquid dpm (blackjack) before laying the battens. Anyways I think my best best...

Hi, looking for some help please, I'm planning on battening/levelling a concrete floor with 20mm battens at 400mm centres. Then lay the ply over this, I'm thinking I can get away with 12mm CDX ply or do you think this is not thick enough? The finished floor is 6mm LVT click together...

Glass fuse blown in multimeter ? Perhaps open it up and check.

Hi, I could do with some guidance please... It turns out I had it wrong with the overhead cable, our overhead cables are telecoms. I think what confused me was that the opposite (older) properties do have overhead power cables. Anyways, our electric service cable are underground and is indeed...

Great thanks again denso

Great thanks denso, much appreciated for your help Do I install it just above 'finished floor' or just above concrete base? Cheers

Or this can be bought / made up

Hi Denso, thanks for the help Looks like I need to cut existing clay pipe and fit something like this? Thanks

Having read other posts, looks like I need to cut the flange off and make existing waste level with concrete base. I think one of these toilets would work without altering the incoming mains, but not sure if it will fit current waste location :unsure:

Hi, Looking for some help please! I'm currently repairing the concrete/base around existing toilet waste pipe. As I'm at this stage, thought I'd ask Is there need to do anything with the old waste? (1960s waste) The flange/collar sits above concrete slab level about 100mm. The waste runs out...

Interesting thoughts cheers bernard :unsure: These handful of bungalows (about 15) were built circa 1968, I'm right in the middle to where the farmhouse is, so could be running to them. I'll try and get a camera under cutout / enclosure (y)

Great thanks John for the post Yeah you'd think they would have removed the looped cable when they installed the overhead Nearest neighbour is 5ft away, which is where the cutout is. No other buildings on land. I'm getting the meter box moved to outside next few months, so will ask when...

Great thanks John for the post That does make sense thanks, will assume it's still live then There is a farmland / house directly behind our house, however the distance is approx 160m, could it be possible it's running to that property over that distance? Thanks for the help

Many thanks John for your post Cheers Good point on the neighbours overhead line being redundant, I never thought of that it could be the case But yeah it will be interesting to find out if the loop is live or not Cheers