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No building sand in the mix, normal strong concrete. Granno gives a lovely finish. It's all in the wrist to get that smooth surface like glass. And curved too, none of that straight sides and top nonsense.

IIRC, the "Use by" date of lime is a few million years. The date on the bags is part of the manufacturering QA process

The requirement in this context is that rainwater goes into the private ground - via a permeable surface or soakaway or the adjacent soil. There is no requirement for a SuDS compliant system.

Did you have the work done by a professional tanking firm, or a a random builder? Is it a system, or with proprietary damp proofing products, or just done as you've described with ordinary cement and plaster? Was the wall nuturalised first to deal with salts?

Yes, not like your black line

There is no requirement or time limits to complete any planning permission once the work is commenced. So, if work is generally in accordance with the approved plan apart from not being fully complete, then its fine. Building that is not in accordance with the approved plan (or planning...

Flat, with a suitable fall for drainage. Don't worry about any minor variation in the bedding sand, particularly at the un-trafficked edges. Never have dips. Chambers are OK but not the opposite.

Knock all the coating off to reveal the actual wall behind. It looks like we are seeing plaster on top of render. If the actual wall is cracked, then you will need the opinion of a structural engineer to determine the cause and the suitable repair.

It's reconstituted stone, not brick. These are made by mixing up and compressing lots of stone fragments with a binder to form what look like blocks of natural stone. It looks like only the face was actual yellow sandstone, and this has experienced contour scaling from what could be one or...

Have a look at the floplast sump trap, or see if there is a similar product for other channels. At screwfix

Equally, you see the external face of car glass, greenhouse glass and even double glazed house glass with condensation on it - and you don't get any better ventilation than the outdoors!

The cheaper lasers, even green are difficult to see outside unless you're on the night shift. You would normally need a pulse laser and a separate detector. Traditional line and square is normally best. For 3,4,5, a piece of timber with the units marked on it is easiest as there is no flex or...

There are models of the 12v drills/drivers that regularly get offered for a lot less than £50 on Amazon or eBay. I would suspect that they use the same switch module.

Silt/debris is the main cause of soakaway blocking and having reduced life, so a silt trap and regular cleaning would be wise or even essential choice for some locations. P taps will help, but are not as effective at trapping lighter particles and vegetable matter. Again, they require regular...

Building regs will not apply.

Is anyone concerned that the external wall is 50mm out of plumb?

Do you have loft insulation in that area? If not get some.

Walls will always be damp to some extent, that's normal. The issue is when they have excessive damp, and the damp is in places that indicate a problem. There are no common damp meters that are calibrated for use on walls, so any reading is inherently wrong. It always comes down to how readings...

It wont really matter for this little bit of floor. The hardness of the surface is not the issue, rather it's the bonding. Do whatever you feel comfortable with or able to do to get a flat surface - if you have a wooden or plastic screed float fine use that, if not use a metal float. 4:1 will be...

Oh, a hearth. Vaccuum the surface with a brush attachment remove all loose stuff, brush your SBR on, and I'd be inclined to brush on a cement slurry too to fill the uneven surface that screed would not get into. Mix your screed a bit wetter than normal with what, half a cup of SBR and just lay...