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Context?

Lots of people think drawing an extension is just a matter of a few lines attached to a larger rectangle and add a window and door here and there. It's actually a bit more than that and involves design - thinking about what's possible, practical and how it will be built. It's no good saving...

Parquet always reminds me of school assembly - sitting cross legged on the cold, hard hall floor, hoping not to be called up to the front for public scolding from some minor transgression. Be gone with it.

The upstand is set in to the joint, so whilst a drip is preferably, lack of a drip won't be causing water to penetrate the wall

It would be more useful to have an image from a few metres away showing the whole area particularly the areas above the internal damp. Mark the locations of the damp on the image

Dampen the area with water or brush or a thick pva mix, then if you can, lever the sheet with a wide chisel or lever. If the nail comes up, pull that out first. If the board fractures, spray or coat the edges

I'm personally not suggesting it, but the standards and the whole science community do assert that warm air holds more moisture, and there is risk in that fact. But for clarity ...

Any connection needs to be designed by the SE, not just yolo'd by the builder. An SE won't be able to certify a welded connection. A 178 beam wont have much tolerance for point loading, so no builder could possibly guess on it's suitability without working out the loading and layout

The surface texture indicates a pressed board, and if it is from the 70's then it is likely to be AIB

Is that a bathroom? Are you sure it's not condensation related?

As property owners, with shared apportioned costs, what you should be doing is having the work independently inspected and specified by someone who won't benefit from any work they might recommend, and then get quotes on what work you specify - not various dissimilar quotes on what work various...

Was that engineer designed? A bottom flange should not be loaded like that.

Your fundamental problem is that you need a roofer who has a clue, and knows how to investigate. Looks like you need the top abutment opened up to check the flashing, and abutment detail. You should also have the wall above and frame sealant checked to ensure that nothing is getting behind the...

If the roof is bowing and ponding, that's an issue with the structure, and just coating it with anything won't rectify the ponding. That said, ponding itself if not a problem and not a cause of leaking if the covering is sound. So beware of being advised to recover the roof to cure ponding...

I wouldn't bother.

Does it need a new roof? Or repair? New liquid coatings can be applied over some firm stable existing coverings, but not over any old crap. A 10 year warranty is useless unless it's insurance backed. He can give you a 1000 year warranty and then go bust or change the company name after he's...

The detailing is around the perimeter and roof window, which are the common areas for water penetration. If the leaking is at edge and because of no soakers, then that's your problem and the roofers should have told you that and quoted for that - not quoted for extra unrelated work to correct...

If someone is quoting for this type of work without scaffolding, you should give them a wide berth. 2 blokes, 2 days max would be more like it. A day is 8:00 to 4:00, not 9:00 to 1:00

The installers should be offering a system for the panels they fit. Normally £500-£600 extra for a typical 3 bed. Stainless steel would be preferable. Otherwise, the guards chosen should last as long as the panels, and be wary of galvanised as these can rust when they are cut or worn from...

I suspect the problem is that none of the tiles are actually flat, not the pitch. The membrane would normally be a second line of defence against water penetration, so if the roof is leaking you may want to check the detailing at edges and upstands too.