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It's a gap filling product, and is not something that would be specified for draught proofing. Something to do with the air voids within it, the inconsistent volume and lack of flexibility. True it's a bodger's dream, but it does not create miracles.

Get it assessed, it may require partial rebuilding not just repointing and a few bricks replaced. And the assessment should ideally not be by someone who may want to do the work and charge you handsomely for the privilege. Again ideally, if an independent professional report can classify this...

The obvious solution is to fit a humidity controlled extractor fan or a cooker hood that extracts to external. Either must be suitably selected and used, and for a fan, located appropriately - not just thrown in where is most easiest for the electrician. Boarding the wall is a second option if...

What insurance responsibilities?

Yes you can look around the neighbourhood and spot the cheapskates. There is no other reason people chose a different tile. But the conundrum is, do you select a tile to match the neighbours in the hope that they then do the same in a few years when it's their turn to replace? Also contrary...

Moisture resistant plasterboard is a waste of time in this situation. You're better off fitting foil backed plasterboard as a means of controlling vapour entering the cold roof void. Adding quilt insulation above will prevent condensation and pattern staining to the finished ceiling.

Strictly it's a warranty not a guarantee, so there are legal differences, and you should regard it as being defect based, not outcome based. So the warranty covers issues related to the installation [operation] and not the suitably or performance of the product.

Leave the internal timber lintel if it's sound, just point and gap fill. Fit something like and IG L10 or Catnic ANG lintel to the external leaf only, not angle iron - which will rust. You'll need to either lift the lintel and fit a knock on to the top of any new frame, or give some thought...

Expanding foam is not really a draught sealant, but can be used as a packer before sealing with a flexible mastic or caulk. Or foam EPDm/neoprene strips as packing.

The clarification is there to see. 3rd page, 3/4 down https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/hubfs/Blog/Blog%20PDFs/labcw-tech-update-roof-tiling-and-underlays-the-new-bs5534-standards.pdf Or see BS 5534:2014 + A2:2018

Get the lead flashing looked at

The standard (BS 5534 2014) was clarified via a 2018 amendment, which specifically states that it does apply to repairs and maintenance. So yes, technically even a single ridge tile replacement would require mechanical fixing. The only exemption is for heritage buildings. It's a bit of a...

This is oh-so-common. Google for lap vents or make your own.

Four is "about five" in builder's parlance.

Yes, a level 2 report would be expected to include comment of the apparent suitability of tiles for a low pitch. There are ways to use tiles below their guide pitch, but as this type of survey is visual only, there would be no way of knowing how the underlay has been designed or fitted...

Likely still drying out if it has just been built. Make sure the dehumidifier is suitable for the area involved, keep it on and close all vents. Wait until the amount of moisture being collected reduces

With the retro-fit market, and particularly grant funded schemes, the installers were under pressure to complete several properties per day and it was common for installs to be done very quickly and haphazardly, with some areas missed completely. Either have a thermagrahic survey done, or get...

Yes, I'll trade you for next week's lottery numbers. Flashband over any pipe joints, pipe to roof junction and any potential movement joints as reinforcement, then acrylpol over.

What does that mean? Black mould or water penetration?

Didn't your plan drawer detail the high risk areas? You need a slot cut for the cavity bridges, and insulation around the beam. Don't forget the cavity tray above.