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so it is basically two pieces, one is the extension bit, converting from 3.5" ( spigot, rubber fins) to 4" plain pipe, and the other is the standard 4"/110mm pipe-pan connector? sorry if I am being a bit thick. 8) /max

thanks! it looks like I am going to need a bit more length there. and if I use a piece of standard PVC piping, then I need MKS3 to go into the cast iron pipe?

grrinc, thanks for your reply. which one do you think is suitable for 3.5"? there is just one for cast iron (MKS7), and it doesn't specify the diameter. 8( /max

hello everyone I am renovating a bathroom and today I made an attempt to remove the WC pan to prepare the wall for plastering. after unwrapping a greased rag around the joint I discovered that the collar of the cast iron soil pipe is broken. one side of it has broken off and was held in place...

just googled for the part number. google indexes PDF documents. 8)

are you sure this is an ignition circuit ? I thought ignition circuit provides spark for lighting, and gas supply is something different. I honestly don't understand what this had to do with it the original subject. are we going to dispute usefulness of PWM now ? going completely OT...

thanks very much ChrisR, for the explanation. I will have to call the specialist to check modulation then.

I know, I can read the manual. I did not adjust these settings. why would I ? installation is the same. RTFM: http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/downloads/EN2R9025.PDF as you can see, the valve is indeed controlled by PWM. the higher PWM duty cycle is, the more current is applied to the...

the valve is controlled by an electric signal. the gas valve used in this boiler has two solenoids, one of them is used to modulate. what I gathered so far is that the amount of gas coming through the valve depends on the duty cycle of the PWM output of the controller. what I was asking is...

thanks raden. would you be so kind to explain, how do I check modulation ?

how about explaining the terms ? is it much more difficult/time consuming than writing what you just wrote ? re blowing up: of course I am not going to touch the gas circuit. I was checking the sensors/electronics and asking questions about operation. re being cocky: this is exactly what...

would you be more spicific, what was exactly wrong with the question(s) ? I thought the whole point of this forum was to make people know more, not to be all cocky towards people interested. I fixed the problem btw.

the question was what does "modulate" mean in that context. I found the gas valve datasheet and it looks like it can vary the amount of gas gradually. it looks like there are simply two solenoids, hence 4 wires. how likely is the valve being broken, despite the fact that the burner works okay...

also, the manual says that the flame should modulate. does that mean that the amount of gas coming through the gas valve is adjusted gradually, or it just goes on and off all the time (PWM mode) ?

I checked it all, inspected the board for dry joints as well. I would think that even if the boiler shuts down because it doesn't sense the flame, shouldn't display an error by lighting up the "boiler shut down" LED ?

how can I measure pressure without special tools ? I do have the manual. --- guys, what signals control the gas valve ? I think if I measure them with the old board and then adjust the new one to give the same, that would do the trick. thanks very much in advance on any guidance.

sorry bripl, I did not quite get that.

any advice how I can replace the board without special tools ? if I set the potentiometers in the same positions as on the old board, won't it work ? or maybe I can measure certain voltages on connectors and adjust the new board to have the same ? thanks very much for your help, guys.

thanks for the blatant advert, raden. I did not find them myself. this although raises two questions: 1. the part number for the reconditioned part is 805900 and the new ones I found on the net are 807690. which one is correct ? are there different types of boards for the same boiler ? 2. I...

checked the power supply of the microcontroller - 5V. raden, are you saying these PCBs are know to fail ? I can't find any cheap reconditioned ones. so far only on eBay for £80. thanks for replies, guys. anyone else ?