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Nice 'n' clear, as always Adam. Thanks :lol:

Thanks Adam, you are a smart cookie :wink: but I'm now a bit confused about the difference between (and the need for) those two tables. I've always taken T&E as being 'multicore', hence table 4D2A, but now I see 4D5A mentions 'flat' cable so maybe that's where I should be looking (but it...

I would say you need to reskim the plaster around the sockets so that the plaster covers over the edge of the backbox. Once set, chip off the excess plaster and use longer machine screws to fix the socket front.

Hmmm...I'm wondering what the shop would sell....oor maybe it should be changed to shed? :wink:

ColJack - you've quoted values for 6mm² clipped direct as 47A and 10mm² clipped direct as 64A. These values are 1A higher than in my 16th edition - where are you getting your figures from? 17th edition? Just curious :D

I don't think there are any 'official' zones around a basin, though building regs recommend keeping the immediate 'splash' area clear of electrical stuff. I don't have my 17th edition yet, so maybe it's different now, but I'd say your cupboard is in at least zone 3, if not beyond the zones. A...

Hmmm..did you get a certificate for the electrical work? Know any friendly electricians?

Just like to mention that the price I quoted is very optimistic :D I would typically charge about £400 for this work, and spend at least the whole day on it.

Ah, how I love being the bearer of good tidings (I wish!)... A new consumer unit with RCD protection is quite cheap (say £50-£80), and fitting it just takes a few hours (say £100-£150), but here's the thing.... the regulations require that your whole installation (all your circuits) are tested...

Like cars (and everything else), houses need money spent on them from time to time :wink: Your primary concern is, quite rightly, safety. Think of the long term and consider upgrading your cartridge fuse board (it's only one step on from a really old rewirable fuse-board) to a modern MCB...

Ah, Mr. screw-through-cable...going for my heat shrink butt crimps are you? They're very good and you can find them at...

In other words you need a qualified electrician. Cost of running a new 10mm² cable depends on how far and how easy to run back to your consumer unit (fuse board). Other option is to change the shower for another less than 10kW, though it sounds like you need a proper sparks to look at the whole...

A friend of mine - I just smacked his wrists :lol:

I had a similar problem when a kitchen fitter drilled through one leg of a kitchen ring I had installed. The cable was in the correct zone, but it still happened. No harm done to anyone thankfully. I repaired it with combined 'heat shrink butt crimps' from rapidonline.com. You need pro crimpers...

I believe that certificate is known as a 'Building Regulations Compliance Certificate'

Perhaps another case of manufacturers being out of step with actual installation procedures/materials? If they'd thermally insulated the underside more, then surely standard 6mm² T&E would have done...

City & Guilds 2330 Level 2, Buildings & Structures.

By the way, thanks Adam for your comments on diversified demand for large groups of houses - I missed it earlier :D (where do you get this knowledge from? Are you working for a large electrical contractor?).

Talked to EDF at length today, and to my client (who seems aware of likelihood of an upgrade). EDF do a relatively cheap upgrade to 3 x 100A for between £1K-£3K. This would probably do fine if we can get all flats on 60A demand (some flats may now have gas heating; there'll be no electric...

Thanks gents, will get back to you this evening as have to dash out to work. Well done on passing your 2330 level 3, Adam. I finished mine this summer and am busy working in south London (and elsewhere). Plenty of work, but lose a lot to as not cheap enough for some folk! I think this client...