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To answer my own question - by reading the numerous other posts on this very topic :oops: - the room stat needs a permanent live and neutral (terminals 1 and 2) to power the heat anticipator resistor, with a switched live on 3 to call for heat from the boiler. 8)

Ignore my last post - I was having a blond moment. :oops: Terminal 1 is live, 2 is neutral, and 3 is the switched live.:lol:

Why does a room stat need three-core wire?

I've thought about wireless, but don't like (a) having to replace batteries, and (b) having yet another radio signal poluting the house.

Many thanks for the advice. I'm beginning to get my head round it all. The room stat I've bought (Honeywell T6360) seems to require a permanent live and neutral on terminals 1 and 2, with a neutral from the programmer on 3. Not understanding this!

Very helpful. Thanks. Yes, the stat was originally in the hall but when I fiited the TRV I thought it pointless keeping it there. Maybe I should revert to having the downstairs stat in the hallway and remove the TVR from the rad there and put it on the bathroom rad. I plan not to have the...

Looks like a good system, but at £1000 it's not really a DIY solution

I am upgrading the controls on my CH system and want advice on where to put the room thermostats. :? Background: I live in a large 3-floor victorian house. I am installing a 3 channel programmer so that I can heat the 4 bedrooms separately from the ground floor and DHW. The hall and stairs...

I am upgrading the controls on my CH system and want advice on where to put the room thermostats. :? Background: I live in a large 3-floor victorian house. I am installing a 3 channel programmer so that I can heat the 4 bedrooms separately from the ground floor and DHW. The hall and stairs...

I'm making a feather edge fence for my parents. What should I use along the top of the fence to stop damp penetrating the boards?

The engineer came. It was the motorised valves that were bust. It's all working fine now.

We've vented it and repressurized or rather the CORGI guy who fitted it has, and shown Dad how to do it in future, but now it's only working intermittently. Fortunately it's still under warranty, but I dread to think how much it will cost next year when the warranty runs out and they have to...

I've looked at drain back systems and they seem very sensible for roof-top fixtures that are above the cylinder, but again they need all the electronics that can go wrong. :oops: My system isn't presurised - it's like an (old fashioned) open vented system. I am hoping that I haven't...

It sounds like they've got a really good system. My solutions to having too much heat are: a) a really large cylinder (350 litre) so that it can store a lot of energy. b) a venetian blind over half the collector so that in hot months (June, July, August) I can reduce the size of the...

My main reason for wanting a gravity feed system is that it removes the need for all the sensors. If the collector is above the cylinder then you need sensors to tell when the water in the collector is hotter than in the cylinder. Then you need a pump (and power for the pump). My system needs...

The sun-tracking systems have been around for a century or so, and worked on clockwork. There's a huge one in Switzerland (I think) that can focus so much energy at a point that it reaches temperatures hotter than any furnace on earth.

I've been looking at motor antifreeze - goes down to -59. I've calculated the volume of my solar circuit (incl. header tank) at 10 litres so I was going to buy a 5 litre bottle from Halfords and be done.

I guess it's because I know how an open vented system works. What are the advantages of a sealed system?

does that mean I can't have gravity feed DHW?

I've got TRVs on all but one rad (the one in the room with the room stat) and I took each rad off, outside, and washed it out. Do I need to do a whole system flush as well?