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Thank you! I am going to try a repair patch with DP8005 scotch weld, with silicone also.. I’ll report results for benefit of others.

Hi All I've just done something pretty stupid - I was cutting away the expansion gap foam around the edges of the screed in our extension when I accidentally cut about a 20cm slice into the damp proof membrane - Does anyone have any solutions to seal this slice up? Dampcourse by lordgaz posted...

cut through the DPM

My architect seems to have over engineered every specification to cover his behind at every stage... I guess I could get my SE to do calcs for thinner rafters but don't think I'd end up saving money once I've paid the SE.. I'm assuming there are not any negative implications of using the 'wide'...

This roof will be standing seam zinc.. its about 6kg sq/m

Thank you - this was exactly the type of answer I was looking for.

Thank you!

Ok - thanks for most of the input :) - Here is an image of the wall plate, and also the dummy frame + guide laminate we made up to show the bottom edge of the rafter which the brickies were building up to - You can now see that it has not been built up to allow for the birds mouth cuts -...

Thanks for the reply Woody, but the question remains about raising the wall plate.. any thoughts..

image to help explain

Hi all - just after a bit of advice before my builders return after the weekend. The builders finished our extension walls up to wall plate on Friday (just before a huge downpour of rain - so I have only been out now to check on it) They have used 4x2 wood as per normal, but I believe they...

I've asked a SE now - I will let you know the reply if possible,

Yes,sorry, I was not clear where this wall would be. Block wall would be ideal, but we need to use a pocket sliding door in this wall so I am not sure it would be suitable (unless you have thoughts) .. again, space is at a premium and thicker walls would steal into room size

If we have the stud wall, it will be built onto the screeded slab - So I see it adds issues rather than solve them (I was thinking it would add to the support, but I am wrong - so in that respect, in theory it would be better to build a stud wall that makes no contact with the joists then? (not...

Thanks for all the replies. Just one more question.. if there was to be a stud wall perpendicular to the direction of the joists in about the middle of the span, would that be considered to 'break the clear span'? Or not be part of any calculation with regard to the trada span tables?

Thank you Tony - That is really helpful - So, based on your info, and referring back to the C24 Trada tables for 6x3 joists - Fd(kN/m2) of more than 0.25 but not more than 0.5 section at 400c/s spacing allows a clear span of 3.79m and my clear span is 3.78m - right on the borderline, but would...

Thanks Tony& Woody - So reading between your lines - The Trada tables are over cautious , so being close to the Trada limit should be ok seeing as a fair proportion of the room will not be "standable in" due to the sloping roof (it will go down to as low as 600mm at the sides of the room...

Thanks again! This room above will be max 3.8m x 3.8m and have enough room for a double bed and 2 humans due to the sloping ceilings.. I am keen for someone to say 75mmx145mm at 400mm centres will be ok obviously so as to save 50mm in joist height and increase the headroom upstairs.. I saw the...

Based on Freddie's span advice picture, the clear span is 3780mm, which I think helps a lot with the trada grading