Wall Plate Advice please

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Hi all - just after a bit of advice before my builders return after the weekend.

The builders finished our extension walls up to wall plate on Friday (just before a huge downpour of rain - so I have only been out now to check on it)

They have used 4x2 wood as per normal, but I believe they have finished it too low - They have finished the height based on the rafter sitting on top of the wall plate (without any allowance for the birds mouth cut depth in the rafter) - So when rafters with the birds mouth cut are fitted, the rafters would be about 50mm lower than they should be

If this is indeed the case, could a second 4x2 timber be added on top of the existing wall plate to get the height back to correct - or will they need to remove current wall plate and cut blocks below and rebuild to make up to the correct level with single wall plate?

(or could a 4x4 be used?)

Many thanks in advance - If further explanation is required, please do let me know -
 
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image to help explain
 

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The crucial thing is that the wall plate is the height of the ceiling joists to match the house.

The rafters might be deeper than the existing or can be adjusted in the seating.
 
Thanks for the reply Woody, but the question remains about raising the wall plate.. any thoughts..
 
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The wall plate height is determined by the ceiling height not the rafter depth.

Are you saying that the plate is not at ceiling height? If not, yes it will need a packing piece on top to suit the joist height.
 
The wall plate height is determined by the ceiling height not the rafter depth
Not necessarily.
With regards to proposed truss rafter roofs that are say marrying into an existing cut roof on a gable end extension (or vice-versa), we never set the wall plate height until the trusses have arrived. We set up a truss rafter or a birdsmouthed cut rafter in place (tops aligned with existing) and then measure down to the masonry and decide the best course of action regards masonry and plate depth. This can mean that the ceilings may not align but the tops of the rafters do.

The ceiling alignment is often not a problem as there is a usually break (masonry header, steel beam, door opening etc) in the ceiling line between rooms. Discrepancies can be dealt with just as easily with the ceilings as the rafter tops, using battens etc. Look at which is the lesser.

So, prioritising ceiling levels is not always the best course of action and certainly does not supersede other options.
 
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Do you put the clients ceilings at random heights?
No. But I have been known to batten and overboard the odd ceiling and leave the rest unmolested. But don't tell anyone.:cautious:

Get real Woods, an inch different in height regards different rooms is not even going to be an issue.
Read my whole post too before you reel off your usual sarcasm. Your one dimensional thinking can be a little irritating at times.(y)
 
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I'm contacting the Staffordshire Mail.
The Birmingham Evening Mail will have you strung up like a kipper if you do. I was centre pages in there once when illegal raves were fashionable. Had my piccie taken going under a subway in Bristol Street not far from The Dome..:mrgreen:
 
Ok - thanks for most of the input :) - Here is an image of the wall plate, and also the dummy frame + guide laminate we made up to show the bottom edge of the rafter which the brickies were building up to - You can now see that it has not been built up to allow for the birds mouth cuts - However, I have had a word with them now and they suggest to just add another 4x2 on top of the existing - Ok to do that?
 

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