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Thanks for the replies so far... Some more information - first off, the water heater is actually 10.8kW and it's a Galaxy from Screwfix. I've feeling it might be the a rebranded version of the Redring that stem mentioned, so I'm fairly sure it can't be used with a thermostatically controlled...

We have an outbuilding with a 9.8kW instant water heater serving a basin and a shower. There's no gas supply and no space for a tank. The shower has a thermostatic mixer valve and really should be off a gravity fed system or combi as it doesn't do much better than a warm dribble at this time...

...as with all my plumbing jobs, I'll have 6 towels, 4 buckets, 2 trays and a couple of 8mm stop-ends to hand :)

Sounds like a good idea! I'm pretty sure there are no leaks in the system (solid at 1.1 bar without top up for ages) so that shouldn't be a problem. Since I'm only using compression fittings, I'm not so bothered about the odd drop of water. I'll post a follow up and let you know how it goes...

Thanks!

I should ask though - in case I can't freeze the pipe and have to drain the system, what do you make of the idea of shutting radiators and just draining the pipework?

I'll ry the freezing option then - I suppose I can have the tray and hose standing by, so worst case scenario I end up draining via the rad by default! One last question... I take it the freezing doesn't distort the pipe at all - I'm not about to freeze the pipe, fit a compression fitting...

I wasn't clear before - the radiator's new and currently empty, so the only water would be from the central heating pipe. I was looking at the option of freezing the inlet pipe, but there's only about 4 inches of the 8mm pipe between the floor and the valve that I'm taking off - does that...

Actually there are only 5... One 120x60cm double One 60x40cm double One 90x60cm double One 120x50cm single One 60x60cm single The 6th is the one that isn't currently connected/filled - it's a 4-column thing from B&Q. Al.

My central heating is a closed system with a combi boiler and 7 rads all on the same floor. The pipes are 8mm microbore, which I gather is plumbed as a 'star' from a central 22mm pipe and a manifold. I need to drain the system to change radiator valves on one rad. There's a drain cock that's...

I think I need something like 11 litres/min. on the hot water, serving just a shower or hot taps - not both at once. I've got a total of 6 radiators, only two of them bigger doubles. I think all this means I need about a 28kW boiler? I've been looking at Vaillant, Vokera and Bosch Worcester...

I've just about had enough of my Sime Super 90 combi. It now looks like the diverter valve has packed up, and I've got leaks below the pump and with the pressure release valve. Would anyone like to recommend a replacement if I decide to go that way? Cheers, Alan.

I fixed my problem with the leaking filling loop, so we're making progress! With the initial system pressure set to 1.5 bar, I turned the heating on. The system pressure rose to approaching 3.0 bar after half an hour or so, so I turned it off and let the pressure drop again. What I've read...

So the filling loop I have at the moment has a (slightly leaky) ball valve at the mains end and the (very leaky) non-return valve (is this the 'double-check' valve your refer to?) at the boiler end. When I disconnct the filling loop I get the central heating water pouring out via the...

...for the quick reply. I'll go wash the dishes then! Alan.

Hello, I'm going to have to replace the filling loop on my Sime 90 combi boiler, or at least the non-return valve that connects to the CH return pipe. The heating is currently at 0 bar - can I still use the hot water in the meantime, or am I missing something with regard to the 'sealed' CH...

I've been losing pressure on my Sime 90 combi boiler. It happens very slowly, and having had the front off, I've noticed that the drain cock is dripping. I hadn't really noticed this before as the boiler's right by the sink, so there's plenty of water splashing around. The drain valve is...