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You may want to check the rest of the lighting circuit for the same reason

I have fitted both types. My favourite for electric is Warm UP but I've only used it it up to about 6sqm - has to be laid out carefully to ensure 'hot' tails are in screed or tile cement, not exposed. I have only used Polyplumb for wet system - they have a plastic sheet system to lay the pipes -...

Sorry, you're right - either the calculator goes or I do!

It was everso slightly tongue in cheek and I don't think they do much bigger than 2.5 or 4mm, but they do g/y earths and meter tails, that was all. There isn't room on a certificate for 'looks like 10mm! PS I like AFAIK - hadn't seen this before

Yes, WHY do it especially as it could have been a perfect installation instead of a botch job. Makes me wonder what the wiring centre looks like (if there is one)!

You must establish what the load is for the oven, typically ovens up to a standard 2.7kw (usualy single ovens) these days usually have a plug. If the oven draws more than this it must be hard wired otherwise it could damage the plug/socket and wiring leaving you with a serious repair bill ...

Are you sure there is only grey and black - this is an unusual combination. A 5-core flex has the usual brown, blue and green/yellow, plus grey and black. Have the other wires just been cut back? The wiring to the 'stat' is 'control' wiring so not subject to the same rules as power circuits...

Maybe take an offcut to your local B&Q and match it to one of their cut cables off the shelf?

Mostly agree, though if R is constant and V reduces, then of course I increases, but agree this probably isn't significant here. No I was thinking more that it's fairly unusual for voltages to go through the roof but very common to find that hundreds of watts have been added to rooms where the...

No need to spend extra money on trunking unless you think there is any specific risk of physical damage. This is a new installation so must comply with 17th edn. Cables as before should be run in the prescribed zones and all circuits should be RCD protected. Trunking is not now adequate unless...

Just a small point - if the SWA is terminated into the Henley block, has the wire sheath been earthed?

It would be best not to bed the cables in the insulation as this substantially reduces the current carrying capacity of the cable. If it can be sandwiched between the insulation and the plasterboards, this is ok.

Are the dimmer and transformer(s)compatible? Most electronic transformers tend to be dimmable now. Check rating of the dimmer, at least 400w for this set up. 'course, if it's not working with a standard rocker switch then you are looking for a loose connection.

Just read the last post properly - job done. I hope you don't mind the other info if it helps!

God help us all! The RCD has not a been specific requirement of the regs. apart from recent changes in the 17th edn. A 30ma RCD gives personal protection: 50 - 70ma could kill you so a 100ma RCD is not there for the same reason. Manufacturers' recommendations should be followed provided they...

Surely a voltage DROP would be causing the problem - drawing too much current? Any way I've never measured a voltage higher than 245v... Many fire-rated fittings recommend the use of aluminium reflector lamps - usually referred to as 'coolfit' I've recently had callouts for lamps blowing very...

Rather an expensive antiquated thermostat I would always replace with one of the electronic types. Although they have batteries in there is no need for neutral and the differential is reduced from 1.5 degrees to 0.5 degrees so well worth changing a battery every couple of years. Also very...

Yes, but is it Y plan? Presuming you have now wired the wired the stat correctly, you still appear to have a 'rogue' live connection to the boiler. Check the stat does make/break the circuit - if '3' remains live when you turn the stat down you have that side connected to a live contact. Go to...

Sorry, Spark123, I must take more water with it..! My post sounded snooty, and wasn't meant to be... I've just been reading Domster's post re 'consumer unit trouble' and I despair of the jobs that I see and read about where the poor customer has to pay out again to have the job put right.

Yes... the red wire is the live supply which is made or broken by the switch, so the 'common' is the live feed and L1 returns power to the light fitting. The black wires in the connector block, on this occasions are 'neutral', in other words the installer brought a live, neutral and earth via...