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Hi - I noticed that my Danfoss Set3E control unit for heating and hot water had died on me last night, after replacing the fuse it came back on but the clock wasn't working and no matter what setting I put it on (off, timed or continuous) it worked continuously, I tried to reset but this did not...

I've recently moved house and we now have a Baxi Solo 2 PF - when it switches off we get a continual clicking noise that seems to be lasting longer as time passes - the only way to stop it seems to be by switching timer switch to continuous then back to timed but even then it comes back at times...

Cheers Chris, just checked wickes website and it is a high pressure valve Fitted it to existing cistern inlet so used new fibre washer in joint, was going to use ptfe on threads but didn't feel that nut was going far enough on and applying pressure to fibre washer so took ptfe off - what do...

Recently replaced the ballcock in the loft but after reading on here that there are high and low pressure cocks I'm confused about which I have and need The one that I replaced was a Portsmouth valve, I bought the new one at Wickes and it looked the same as the old one, even seemed to have...

Thanks for that Forgot to fit new fibre washer, left the one in from the new valve, never thought that it may have the impression from the new section and I was fitting to the old one - waters been back on for a couple of hours now and all seems fine - is it best left alone now or do you...

Hi - the overflow from my cold water tank was dripping for some time, always mornings after no hot water use overnight so I replaced fibre washer and piston washer but it still dripped so I've replaced the ballcock. As the new one appeared to be the same as the old one and the existing inlet...

Thanks folks didn't expect so much detail but all very interesting, I don't think I'll bother upgrading to 10.5kW, not that desperate that I want to change the breaker and isolation switch

Not really, none in the wall and 6" in loft but cable only meets this when it comes out of wall cavity, it then travels across joists to pull switch and back again - so, voltage drop is not a problem, I know you gave me the formula for working it out so pardon my ignorance but does that mean I...

Not exactly - it appears to run from the consumer unit downstairs, up and under the floor on the landing across to bathroom and up wall cavity into loft to pull switch and back to shower unit, approx. 8-10 metres to switch and 2m back to shower unit, to be honest if it means upgrading cable and...

That's why I asked the question, as I was led to believe cable size had a bearing , the existing cable is 10mm

Interesting to read all your comments - if I was to step up to a 10.5kW shower from my 9.5kW could I re-use the existing 45A or would I be better stepping up to 50A

:D Excellent, thanks for your help, it seems that what I need is an Adapter to fibre cement flue liner, I'll have to make more enquiries after the weekend now that I know what to ask for.

Thanks, thats what I thought but when my wife tried to get a plumber/heating engineer, she was told that she needed a roofer to change ridge tile / adaptor etc. so she rang corgi to make enquiries and was told that anyone could carry out the necesary work but it must be checked by a corgi...

:?: My warm air central heating has been switched off by the gas board as it failed a smoke test during a recent service, the problem appears to be at the adaptor from the existing 4 inch pipe ( looks like an asbestos type material) to the ridge tile which is also cracked. After having trouble...