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Starts cycle - then doesnt heat. There are lots of clicks but no other action. No heating or advancement. No obvious visible problem with circuit board; motor doesnt turn. Noticed the polystyrene float is missing. Some leakage from front - but the seal is warped - so probably that (not...

No I havent. Ding Bat was right. So I'm about 50% out. So 10 lights not twenty. So 500W. Still a lot!

We have 600W at present. But as you say we never have them on at the same time. Presumably I don't then add the low voltage bulbs each at 50Ws. Or do I?

I am fitting downlights in our living room. The guides say 1.5m sq per 50W light. This will mean we need 20 downlights. I was hoping to daisy chain from the existing rose light (which we will be removing). What is the limit I can fit, and how do I work out what that limit is?

OK so drop the wattage of bulb to 40W? Thanks for your advice.

There is no sticker (that would be too easy!). The wires are 18 AWG

Sorry. I am not an expert. How do I check the spec for the wiring?

Thanks. They put in 12V 50W bulbs. The wiring is mostly contained within a white sleeve (which I assume is the heat sleeve). There is no loft insulation.

We have just had a disasterous building company install a bathroom for us. In the end we had to ask them to leave. I am gradually looking at their work to see what needs to be redone, and what can stay. Today one of the ceiling halogens stopped working in the bathroom. We replaced the bulb...

Many thanks for your comments. I am not aware of any other switch. It sounds very much as if I should get an external electrician in to survey their work. This is not the only problem that I have had with their work. Could you tell me what my LABC is?

My builders have provided only a switched live and neutral wiring to the fan, and have ordered a fan with a timer. I may be completely wrong, but don't you need to have a permanent live as well as a switched live if you expect to have the fan continue after the light switch is turned off...