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I’ve got to do an 8 metre straight run of 22m copper for the hot water for a shower & basin, & I’m wondering what to do about thermal expansion. One end runs up to a wall & could be anchored there, the other end has nothing to get in the way & could take all the expansion & contraction. So...

Norcon – many thanks for your detailed response for a design. I appreciate the time you put into it. I must say that it makes complete good sense to me. But then again I’m no expert, which is why I was posting. So, I have to say also … DoItAll 1) – pumps notifiable – didn’t know that -...

I’ve been away for a few days & just catching up with the posts – feels like I’ve dropped a few wasps into a bottle & given it a good shake. Seriously - thanks for all your posts – I’ve certainly learnt some – and most importantly, I see now that my original plan was rubbish – every time the...

Dear Doitall – thanks for your reply. Not sure I explained it very clearly – cleared it a bit more in my own head now. Would the following work? Just have the one pump (the negative head booster pump). As normal, it goes to the bathroom & gets switched on when a tap is opened & the water...

The system is vented with a tank in the loft. New bathroom (shower, basin, WC) going in - also in the loft – so going to be negative head pumping for all of those. But, the bathroom is 16m of 22mm pipe away from the tank, so I’d have to run off a gallon every time, to get the first dribble...

Thanks for your thoughts. Yup – paranoid is about right – the previous bout was very expensive (moneywise & physical disruption to 5 rooms in the house – plaster hacked off, new floor & bathroom, skirtings & door surrounds taken out & replaced, heavy doses of fungicide in kid’s bedrooms, … )...

I’m making a wetroom & trying to work out the structure. My main worry is about the floor. I had a serious case of dry rot once before in a previous house. The wetroom floor is between the 1st floor and the loft conversion, suspended timber (now heavily battened up for strength), then it...

Many thanks Doitall & Bengasman At least I can have some sort of a sensible conversation now with the mysterious forces that move the waters. A further thought occurs … My new shower is going to be on the end of about 15m of 22mm pipe – the hot water cylinder’s on the other end. So I’m...

Thanks for your thoughts doitall – it’s just the stuff I need to know. The hot water cylinder is on the floor of the loft, cold water tank is about 2m above, and shower head is going to be about the same – ie level with the bottom of the cold tank. Pump can go anywhere at the moment. What...

Ok doitall – point taken – I didn’t explain that very well. In fact, now I re-read it, I got that bit completely wrong – I do apologise. Start again - I’ve got an (unpressurised) vented central heating system. The hot water’s coming from the hot tank (unpressurised) in the loft, and the...

the plumber says no problem mate … it’s all plastic these days … you just push fit them all together … 15mil … interesting job … just choose some fittings & give me a call … the mixer / tap / shower head saleslady says … nice choice of fittings, sir … 15mm? no, you’ll need 22mm pipework …...

Good point tryitandsee – something else to think about. Is there any way I can allow for different distances between centres at a later date? Are plastic pipes more able to be bent to a new position than copper, maybe?? Thanks

I’m having a go at making a wetroom & have chosen Wedi base, floor & walls, and then going to tile it over. I’m doing the construction & getting a plumber to do the shower pipework, etc When it comes to plumbing – I’m trying to get it clear in my mind first – as it affects what I do with the...

Ok - earthed metal conduit it is. Do I then earth the conduit by connecting it to the earth of the T&E that's running through the conduit - or do I have to provide some extra CPC ?

Part C of Amendment No 2 : 2004 of the IEE specifies that a cable concealed in a thin wall or partition … … be enclosed in earthed conduit, trunking or ducting, …, or be mechanically protected sufficient to protect penetration of the cable by nails, screws and the like, … what does anyone...

I used to do my own wiring on my own house, but now I’ve been P’d off, so to speak. I’d like to do some still (and will have it officially inspected – I want it to be safe!) – can anyone advise me on cabling guidelines? This is what I usually do, but is it up to the current regs/good practice...

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Suspended wood floor with lovely solid oak T&G boarding as the top layer.

Not strictly an electrics question, but … I’m putting a new permanent floor down, but I know from past experience that I’m going to want to add new services somewhere in the room later on. ie say … – an aerial socket for putting the TV in a different place – a computer networking cable...

I’m afraid I’ve done a bit of a red herring here – for which I apologise. My old loft floor was stuffed completely full of insulation, and I was assuming it had to be the same for the new one. In fact the new void is 225mm deep, but only 100mm of rockwool is deemed necessary, so I’ve got...