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bathroom is now ready for lino/vinyl. Current floorboards have had a good sweep , are level(ish) and no nails protruding. I wish to lay 6mm marine plywood over this. Do I need to but a 'foam 3mm underlay' between the plywood and floorboards or am I being too fussy ?!

cheers guys ...looks like thicknesser is the practical route :wink:

mmm....i've got about 15 x 5ft floorboards to do! :(

I need to resit my reclaimed floorboards, which are protruding out - 1mm. Rather than invest in a thickness machine and plane the whole floorboard, I'd thought I could use an electric plane . the theory is to cut out a 1mm depth groove (just over a joist width wide), Any tips to cut a...

mmmmm................ the more I think about this, i'll just glue appropriate sized stripwood into the grooves .....it cant be that simple a solution can it.. .......LOL

they are 21mm thick and are reclaimed 1930s pitch pine. The tongue side has been planed down to get the required width the groove is in the middle. I was concerned a weight ( eg stiletto heel) could put sufficient force on the groove section , as to collapse it ? the average length...

I'm replacing damaged floorboards with, reclaimed floorboards, (originally tounge + grove) - the TOUNGE IS NOW CUT OFF. Any suggestions for strengthening the groove space (about third of the depth of floorboard) : 7mm x 7mm Do I need too - that is the point !?

We are having the roof reslated, with a breathable membrane put in (none at the moment). To finish this job, I’m considering having roof Kingspan Kooltherm put in . Will the roofer give me a certificate for this ?

I'm being inqivsative ! :oops: When a loft is constructed, are all the rafter area (eaves to apex) filled with insulation ? or is only the actual roof area of the constructed loft 'lived in' - so the outer area to the eaves are uninsulated and used just for storage.

i've recently primed (water based : x2 coats) and painted mdf doors (siklwood : water based - x3 coats). Not really happy with finish as light tends to show paint roller marks. Could i just sand down (320 grade) and repaint with oil based paint - or do you think its my roller technique ?

Before i start considering work on the new structural loft floor, should i remove the grubby 1970s floor fiberglass insulation ? Dirt and dust has collected because the roof (to be replaced etc) has no felt layer. I suspect the insulation properties of the fibre glass has deteriated, due to...

first rule : measure twice - cut once ! :oops:

ok..... so is this legal ?

I decieded to go for a 1/4 turn winder staircase. i wish to have it constructed like so: fisrt part treads (kites) built of 6000mm width - due to hieght issues (2m to below stairwell tread) the rest of the staircase (the straight section) being the same width as the stairs in pararell...

thanks for the input - i'll take it onboard

Next year we are going for the big one - attic upgrade on 1930s terrace, as our old endowment policy is due! Anyway we are looking for 4 major jobs : Job 1 - floor needs strengthing - steel beams passed throuh the roof Job 2- a velex window installed Job 3 - roof needs retiling + and...

i suddeny realized this as i posted !- but thanks for the reply. :roll: i'm doing a design project cheers anyway :!:

in the uk, are the holes in basins, for hot and cold taps, ALWAYS the same distance apart ? :oops: