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I have not tackled the new timer installation yet; probably later this week. The need arises because the timer controls two gas heaters, and these need a power feed to disable, ie the opposite way to the normal function of a timer. The Honeywell ST6100C has a changeover contact so can provide...

Problem now solved. Trunking directly under timer made it difficult to see the screw, or at least where it was supposed to be, but was missing! A good upward push and I have finally managed to separate the timer from the wallplate. Now I will have a busy afternoon installing the new one...

Many thanks. I will have another look later today, but am getting suspicious that this unit may have been modified, or that the screw is simply missing. Allan

I need to change an existing Danfoss 103E7 Timer. However, in spite of having the installation instructions for the Danfoss, I cannot work out how to remove it to access its backplate. The instructions for the Danfoss suggest a screw visible at the base of the unit, but I cannot find it...

Yes Chri5, I probably should do as you say. However, I suspect that many electricians might look at my 1970s installation and insist that I upgrade and even rewire? For the moment, I have tested the 6A MCB 'on the bench' at 8.5A (2kW) or 1.42 times rating and it switched out after 56sec; good...

Thanks to the replies here. I have now installed the lighting MCB and all seems to be OK, Yes I did switch off the main switch before swapping the base. I was also aware that this was notifiable work. I will probably do no more for the moment as it was the need to rewire the lighting fuse...

Yes Chrii5 they would be. Apologies but I realise I have overlooked the obvious. My MCBs came with matching bases which I assumed would be redundant. However, it looks as though I can remove the existing bases and replace them with the newly supplied ones, and all will be well. This would...

I have an old Wylex Fuse Board installed in 1970. It has never been changed because there have never been any extensions/modifications of any note. A recent lighting fuse failure (caused by the demise of a CFL, not a wiring problem) made me look into MCB replacements for my fuse holders. I...

Many thanks for your replies. The system is quite old so sludge and corrosion are likely. System is set to come on Twice Daily when I am away, at a low air temperature. The system has pumped Hot Water, and the the latter was reasonably warm, but not hot yesterday, suggesting that the pump had...

After being away for 2 weeks, I started up by my (open vented) system and no heat. There was a mains feed to the pump, but the pump appeared to be stalled (no vibration). I unscrewed the vent plug about half a turn. This caused a small water leak, but no air release as I recall. However, the...

I take your points Spark123 and Sparkyspike, the RCBO is single pole. I think my best course of action will be to see what next winter brings in terms of trips, since on our last visit to the house (heating on a lot due to cold weather) there were no trips. Allan

Thanks for all your replies. In answer to Rebuke's point, yes the main switch is 30mA; I did say 'hope' that the RCBO alone trips in future, but I was not assuming the alteration would be successful. However, if it was, then resetting the cooker would be much less trouble than the whole house...

I have a Square D Consumer Unit in an occasionally used house. There is an RCCB main switch and MCB's for each circuit. The cooker (probably due to damp in an element due to infrequent use and low heating level) causes the house to trip out on occasion. To alleviate the problem (perhaps), it...

The reason is because hot water rises. My towel rail is about 1300mm high. Even a short 300mm element, correctly fitted at the bottom, would cause all bars to warm as the hot water rises and circulates around all available 'loops'. The same element at the top would cause circulation only of...

I have an existing water only towel rail, which I would like to convert to dual heat. Unfortunately, the installation would not readily accept the standard bottom fitting eectric element without major modification. Fitting an element at the top would be very easy, but pointless as the average...

My daughter has a problem with her Switchmaster room thermostat which clearly needs to be replaced. Drayton appear not to supply a direct equivalent now? I am due to visit in 2 weeks time, and can fit a new thermostat then. However, from photos sent by my daughter, the thermostat appears...

Yes, but it would make it more difficult to split the work between myself for the radiator network (I work slowly) and the installation of a new boiler. I particularly want to spend time thoroghly cleaning and repainting radiators before re-installation, as well as fitiing new valves etc. I...

My system will still be conventional vented? Allan

I am proposing to upgrade my existing radiator circuit to something like modern standards (something I feel I can do myself) as part of a long term plan to replace the boiler as well (something I will need a plumber for). For the radiator circuit, I am thinking of using Honeywell 'S' Plan so...

Just to complete this thread started on 18th Aug, I have finally installed my towel rail. After failing to dismantle the existing steel piping, I cut the 1/2 inch BSP pipe and then followed the method suggested by ChrisR using a 22mm compression joint. No leaks yet. Allan