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Just to let you know, I followed your excellent instructions and the boiler kept working so it seems that it may well be the microswitch as you suggested. I'm going to run it like that a couple more times to confirm that the fault doesnt re-occur and assuming thats the case, I'll order a new...

OK, many thanks. I'll try that and let you know the outcome.

Hi, So I opened the wiring box and located the grey and orange wires. What I have is the 2 grey wires (one from the CH and one from the HW valves) going into one terminal and then the corresponding 2 orange wires going into another terminal. So I have both of them pairing up rather than any...

D_Hailsham - Many thanks for that brilliantly detailed and user-friendly explanation. I'll do exactly that tomorrow morning and let you know how I get on. misterdubya - yes the valve body is ok.

I meant to add..... could I take the head off the HW valve and try in on the CH valve? They appear to be the same model number and this might determine if the microswitch is at fault before forking out £50 for a new head. It seems that neither require a draining down. Question is... what happens...

Hi again. Sorry, but just to add..... I assume that changing the head on the motorized valve would solve any issue with the microswitch? I ask this because I've noticed that my Honeywell valves do have the dimple on the cover and looking inside confirms they have just the 2 mounting screws...

Thanks again for your reply. No, I'm afraid I dont have a multimeter, but I could get one and learn how to use it.

Firstly, thank you both for taking the time to reply and for your interest in my problem Now I know a bit more about what a motorized valve looks like, I've followed your instructions. With the system running, the lever on the CH valve is loose as you said it should be. After about 10 mins...

Its a 2 port. I have 2 of them in the airing cupboard. I have given them a little test by gently pushing the lever across (system off). They both present smooth resistance after the first couple of mm and then self-return to the starting position ok.

Ah...OK, I've located the motorized valve and it is a Honeywell. I can't see any model number on the outside but I've taken the cover off and can see markings that read Synchron 8734.

Thanks for your reply. Sorry, I dont know what type of motorized valve I have. Sounds like you think that might be the culprit?

Hi, I'm having a confusing time with my central heating and wondered if anyone can suggest what the cause of the problem might be? We have a Glow-worm Ultracom 30hxi boiler which provides CH and HW. Tanks in the loft and HW cylinder in landing cupboard. Boiler fitted 2009. Here's the...

Hi, We used to have a combi-boiler and whilst away on our winter holidays we would leave the heating to come on twice-a-day, but we'd turn OFF the mains water in case of a leak. This gave us peace of mind and seemed to work quite well. Now we are changing to a condensing boiler and...

I want to prepare my damp and uneven concrete kitchen floor ready for tiling (I think this used to be the scullery). It used to have laminate flooring which I've pulled up leaving a thick plastic damp-proof membrane sheet. Obviously I need to get this floor level but I also want it to be...

I want to prepare a damp and uneven concrete kitchen floor ready for tiling. It used to have laminate flooring which I've pulled up leaving a thick plastic damp-proof membrane sheet. Obviously I need to get this floor level but I also want it to be damproof. Can I use self levelling compound...