Search results

Scrim tape your cracks first ,then go as you suggest with pva . You pva for 2 reason ,1st coat a sealer coat , let this dry .Then another coat as your ready to plaster,just let it tack up the skim ,this gives a surface for the plaster to stick to .

Use bonding or hardwall , start filling out the deepest bits first ,normally go about 10mm in one go , as soon as its firm enough go again ,just keep repeating untill level .

Hi Dan . 1st job is to fix the guttering , then when sure you have stopped theprobblem the afgfected aera needds to removed and replaced using the appropiate materials ,a competent plasterer should be able to point you in right direction there mate.

The gap is there incase of spillages ,leaks etc so the plaster does not become damaged .If you are relying on just your internal plaster to stop damp you are in the shist anyway.

As noseall says , you will be able to join all better with plaster or render .However ,with out seeing it you may have room to cut back a nice straght join and dab on board , if ya tiles and grouting are done correctly this will leave everything watertight .As for ya plasterers not coming out...

Probably better to use Hardwall then skim.No need to pva the bricks ,just brush off dust , dampen then fill with Hardwall , then skim in aeras filled when set enough.

Yes the affected aeras can be removed ,new board cut in and skimmed .If ya sure its just on the joins you can try just screwing back the boards to the joists ,back in the 50`s it was popular to nail the boards on ,screws are much better in holding up the boards , if so screw every six inches .

Tight meaning , thin , a term used for a coat of bonding plaster.

Two differnt types of plaster there , board finnish should have 2 coats for a qualiyfinnish , 2mm ,then 1mm .One coat plaster is different plaster , its backing and finnish plaster in one , thats why it is being applied to the bumpy wall , it can be applied thick enough to cover the bumps...

Raybuild , give me a call , I live a little way away in Farnborough , Hampshire , but do know some good spreads in the Oxford aera , trouble is I do not how quick you may get these guys in , if you want more info give me a call on ***** *******

Yeah , sounds like the coving has been repaired , and a bonding agent applied to the ceiling , depending on the agent used the ceiling is ready to be skimmed , so this is normall practice .

You will still need to get off before its skimmed , i have skimmed a couple of ceilings over the years where the pva reacts with gloss paint , and at some time through applying the 2nd coat the paint blisters and you have to scrape the whole lot off .No short cuts i`m affraid .

Spot on post above , follow it letter by letter and you will be ok .

As Multifinnish says , sounds like your trowellng a tad to early , just trial and error , witout seeing what your doing , just keep ya confidence up and keep going.

Height xwidith x depth . If your going on 4m high and 3m wide ,10mm thick you would go 4x3x0.010 , this will give you your amount im m3.Any probs post ya dimensions , oh and add on approx 10% for wastage.