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agree with nickstone,gcol min 12mm :D

What do you mean (lowly bottom tiler) im guessing your taking the **** out of the top tiler bit :P :lol: was the first name i could think of :lol: i really dont think i know it all just trying to help some of the guys on here out :wink: take care mate im off to change my forum id if it will...

:lol: :lol: :P Your one funny fecker ! and you must be a tiler ? as you have a sense of humour :wink:

:shock: EH? keep taking your medication im sure it will all turn out alright in the end :lol: im pleased i have brought some joy into your life :P and would love to hear more about the SPECIAL COURSES for SPECIAL PEOPLE that you have been attending :wink: :lol:

Hi again lol, Should of said as some of the black shi* is still on the walls i would only use bal brand adhesive (check product data on label/ask in supplier) as i know that it states on there data sheets that its fine to use over it :wink: :D

Hi, I always use either plasterboard (cheaper) or aquapanel/tilebacker board (expensive) :D

You may also want to prime the ply with a good acrylic primer fruitcake some tilers do and some dont and make sure the joints are stagered (like brickbond pattern) :D

:lol: :lol: :lol: Should be had enough practice 20+ years in 3 diff countries (always going on every course i can and keeping updated with all new products available and still learning taking advice from other PRO tilers etc) NEVER HAD ANY COMEBACKS PROBS ETC may have read the post wrong first...

I would still treat this as a floating floor bound to still be a certain amount of movement as the substrate is not solid :roll:

Hi, well done :D make sure that all digs and holes you fill has prop dried before you tile if your using tub gear (pre mix) then check its self priming (most are) or if using bag gear (powder) you may have to prime the filled bits (where the rubber has come off) with a acrylic primer NOT PVA...

Hi, i think i understand it will basically be a floating floor ?,if this is correct most pro tilers avoid them like the plague :shock:.This is because even though the floor would feel solid the prob you have is not movement (up and down) but movement from side to side as the floor is not fixed...

Hi, pro tilers wont tile on MDF as just from humidity, can expand enough to pop the tiles off :shock: they also dont use PVA! needs to be a proper acrlic primer.The mdf also sucks in all of the water from the adhesive like a sponge when applied which also causes the tiles to pop off...

Hi, I have never tried this method but i would use something like an old visa/video shop card so you can load small ammounts of grout at a time into the joints then clean up after using a small piece of sponge.You can also buy grout guns (bit like a sealant gun) depending on how much access you...

It depends on the type of bath/shower etc you are installing. Your contractor (if he is a good one) will help you make the right choices.Toilets, sinks etc that have to be cut in look AWFULL ! compared to a suite that is fitted over the top of tiling plus if anything gets damaged then when you...

Hi, your right it def depends on how damaged the chipboard is and is it the green type ? if it is not damaged and prop dried out and prep then you can tile straight onto it (green chip board) with a good brand 2 part adhesive (NOT SINGLE PART) and use flexi grout.If it is damaged then i would...

Hi, without seeing the room i would 1)remove all the tiles you can so walls can be prep if req 2)plumber fit boiler but see if it has a cover that can be fitted after you have tiled plus let him run all other pipework etc 3)remove old suite and last few tiles (behind crapper etc) prep walls...

Hi, sds makes a mess but def the way forward you will prob make more mess and be there forever using a hammer lol,worth putting in the time preping now the end result will be spot on and last for years. Hope it all goes well :D

Hi, tiles should be cut as even/tidy and close to the floor tile as poss i norm leave 1-2mm(for floor movement etc) and then grout with a waterproof grout and cover grout with a small ammount of silocone. Hope this helps :D p.s i hope the boxing in is not made from mdf as you should not...

Hi, Thank god someone who knows about pva lol !,alot of pro tilers like myself dont even bother to prime the ply if they are using a good quality flexi adhesive,i however i always do.Read the bag of the adhesive you are using and see what they recomend (not pva as some granfix products state !)...

Hi, I would def remove old tiles first as you dont know what state the walls are in under them (may need filling/plastering etc.Once this is done (walls properly prep etc) and allowed to dry out if plastering is required then def tile before new suite is fitted you will end up with a much nicer...