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If indeed this engine does use excess diesel to regenerate the DPF then it is a particularly bad thing, and has caused the demise of many a good motor....Mitsubishi and Mazda in my experience! Diesel is an excellent solvent but a hopeless lubricant. I'd be contacting Ford concerning this one...

You've given us a bit of a head scratcher here........! Maybe I can hear a whirring of a bearing, which could be from the alternator or air conditioning compressor. The only real way to isolate these is to remove the auxiliary belt and start the engine up -- hopefully the noise will stop. I'm...

If you get a chance...... Get the car up on a ramp, and check for the aluminium shrouds that cover the exhaust pipe and silencer(s) that comes loose and drops. Hopefully the rattle is as simple as this. John :)

Result indeed! Pleased you've got it sorted. John

Just a word of wisdom when fitting the new flywheel........grip the flywheel as you tighten the nut - avoid the temptation to hold the other end of the crankshaft as it will twist. John :)

I don't think manufacturers give a chuff about their vehicles - just so long as they don't have to pay out on warranty claims and they can screw you big time for service. Here's an example........Honda HRV, 19 plate, bought new costing around £35K (I think) so hardly a bargain basement vehicle...

It looks like the flywheel key has sheared (from here, anyway) so a new flywheel is required. Is the crankshaft key slot damaged at all? John :)

For me, it's shims out, and file where they sit if necessary - rust can be a huge issue here, and it doesn't seem to matter what quality of car you have - rather the metal that the pad carrier bracket is made of. Then, all contact areas are plastered with ceramic grease and reassembled. John :)

This is a heat insulating spacer, and won't stop the coil working. As you've found, the key is part of the flywheel on these engines and yours looks fine. I have to conclude you have a dud carburettor here. John :)

just a point or two - not intended as criticism. If a flywheel key has sheared, the flywheel will still turn on the crankshaft - just not at the correct time - but a spark will still be present. The carb will have only one fuel pipe, but the tank will have a breather of some sort......often...

I've no real idea what is going on here, but maybe the engine is getting a good drench of fuel preventing ignition? Try starting with no choke, then half choke, throttle wide open. It's usual for petrol to be pushed back out of the carb, that's just part of the two stroke design.....are the fuel...

Are you sure the throttle is wide open when trying to start? Has the machine ever run with this carburettor? John :)

Try with the screw fully in, but before you try for a start again, take the plug out, up end the engine and pull the recoil to clear any fuel away. John :)

a paupers grave beckons...... John :)

Obviously I don't know what is the matter with your machine. However, coil failures are very rare - at least with genuine ones, don't use a pattern part here - and the spark is very small, hence looking for it in the dark. The cut out mechanism isn't good, so disconnect any other coil wires for...

Not this time bud - I was only graced with £150 this month! John :)

I don't suspect an ignition problem at all.......but try looking for a spark in complete darkness if possible. The single screw is idle speed, not mixture. Personally I'd be looking for a replacement carburettor - these ones aren't noted for reliability! John :)

Avoid carbon steel taps and dies.......HSS is the way to go, and ideally using split dies. John :)

As with any timing belt or chain, the number of stop / starts is a huge player.....unfortunately this is impossible to determine but at 10k miles there's nothing to worry about so long as the oil is changed yearly. A pal of mine had a 16 plate Fiesta, it went nowhere during covid and threw it's...

Sounds like the rear reflectors have vanished? John :)