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I’ve got fitted wardrobes to build in an existing attic conversion where the pitch of the roof will start sloping down about 4 inches behind the wardrobe doors. As such, I’m tempted to support the clothes rail and door rails by fixing timber across the available rafters. I figure this is a bad...

I’ve got laminate flooring to fit in an upstairs landing that will run up to the balustrade and stair newel. Covering the expansion gap here will leave any edge trim higher than the capping at the base of the balustrade. Running the flooring tight or using brown filler don’t seem like elegant...

Cheers flooringman01. Do you measure up so that the pieces are only in the doorway and not projecting into the room?

Cheers Woodyoulike, Could you elaborate on "don't cut the piece in fromt"?

When I'm fitting laminate flooring and it runs at 90 degrees to a doorway, it's pretty straight forward handling the doorway: trim the architrave, cut a profile and slide under. However, when the flooring is parallel to the doorway I've yet to think of an easy solution. To avoid leaving a...

And was this with MDF treads and risers?

Will do, thanks for all your help.

Point taken on the batton, do you reckon its worth screwing through the strings into the timber frame, as there is a fair bit of flex around half way up?

Thanks for that. I'm removing the plaster board under the stairs to get at the rear, so I'll need to use 2 lengths each step as there's a batton fixed mid way to support the boards.

someone suggested screwing an L shaped timber support to the back of each step. I could route some 2 by 2 and fix through the tread and risers, or make out of two separate battens I suppose.

I have a staircase in a house 9 years old where both the treads and risers are made from MDF. The joint at the front of the treads has held, but more or less every step has had the riser break away from the rear of the tread. Originally, 3-4 screws were used through the risers and token blobs...

I have a staircase in a house 9 years old where both the treads and risers are made from MDF. The joint at the front of the treads has held, but more or less every step has had the riser break away from the rear of the tread. Originally, 3-4 screws were used through the risers and token blobs...

Cheers for that. Am expecting to find a mess inside, as for some reason someone has banged about 8 nails into it! Are the adhesives you mentioned readily available?

Need some exerience fixing loose newels so I might as well start on my own staircase. I've got a two part newel post that is loose where the circular tenon inserts into the lower section. Is there any point in drilling through and tapping a length of dowel through the tenon? Any advice much...

I've been asked to look at a staircase that squeaks and has a loose newel at the top. I haven't seen it yet, but I'm hoping I can just screw through the treads or risers into any glue blocks used to stop the squeaks (a stair carpet is going on afterwards). I guess the newel post is loose on...

Cheers for the advice. I figure copper will look best if I come to sell my house, was trying to avoid buying a blow torch.

Yeah, on one connection. I could re solder the joints and use copper pipe but I figured if a hose was acceptable it would save time.

Figured I might have to. The tanks I've looked at have connections at a different height. Am I ok to patch in a push fit flexi hose by cutting the existing pipe? Many thanks.

I have a 120L indirect hot water cylinder with a slow leak. The leak comes from underneath at the front edge. Is there a sealant that I can pour into the cylinder or will I need to replace it? Many thanks

I have a 120L indirect hot water cylinder with a slow leak. The leak comes from underneath at the front edge where I can feel some rust. Is there a sealant that I can pour into the cylinder or will I need to replace it? Many thanks