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Yes, I'm just back from holiday. Had a great time. Going anywhere nice yourself?

Ah the legend of FWL_Engineer lives on in his whipping boy. Get a grip and a proper job.

Wiring a house alarm using a basic kit is not difficult. Why don't you just buy a kit, read the instructions and if you think you can't do it then get a spark. I think any DIYer could do it.

Thats what most engineering inspection companies use (usually digital version) so sounds OK. Is it calibrated???? If you're going to do a lot of other tests then I'd get one of the 5 in one meters from Robin which will do earth loop impedance, PSC, insulation resistance, continuity and RCD...

You'll need to install horizontal run in metal conduit, therefore you'll have to cut the board away and patch it. Vertical drops can be in plastic conduit and may be an easier option.

Cheaper isnt always better - best to go with a recognised manufacturer or you'll find your switches become defective soon.

The one which was in the COM terminal is most likely the permanent live supply from the lighting circuit. A meter is need to to verify this (ie it will be live and the other one won't be when they're both disconnected). So the (zigzag & arrow) terminal will have the other red (load) in it...

On the link you provided there's an Installation and Wiring Details link Sounds like your right

'strappers' is the slang term for twin red cable between the switches in a two way or intermediate lighting circuit a 'common' terminal is one which is common to the other terminals in the same circuit phase is the live conductor which can be the red, yellow or blue phase. a TT supply is one...

Do you want to be able to switch on and off the security light? If so where would you like to do this - at your back door or in your bedroom? Most halogen security light fittings with a PIR fitted allow you to control the light by toggling the associated light switch - OFF, AUTO (as a...

What about FP200 cable. How did you remove the old wiring - did you just cut them off flush with the outside wall?

Whats the kW rating of the shower? How far is your run of cable from the CU to the shower? I assume you meant there's an RCD on the CU?

I'm backing you on this FWL, here's why... I don't know how many times I've seen an IEC lead for a kettle resting on the stainless steel sink drainer (although the socket it's plugged into is not simultaneously accessible with the sink taps). The drainer allows a puddle of water to...

breezer - Is he not just wanting to cross bond the splashback (assuming it is simultaneously accessible with the taps)? If that is the case then he can link off the pipe bonding clamp. I agree that Taskin should read up on this in case we have misunderstood his question.

Sounds like there was something rare with the wiring before you started. At what terminal on one of the light switches do you have the permanent live cable terminated. I ask this because ... You should have a single red cable (permanent live) from the ceiling rose to COM on switch No1...

Don't think there's any reg about this one but you're thinking is good so use a water proof jb to about IP65 (ingress protection).

Why not use flex into the plug top and grommet/gland it into the light fitting. Fit 3A fuse if doing so.

... also test between neutral and earth Then let us know what your readings are Live - Neutral = Live - Earth = Neutral - Earth = Also - have you an RCD protecting this circuit (or the main board)?, and do you have an earth spike supply to your house?

You have 2 factors to consider Current carrying capacity - which I guess is OK if you run the cable on its own, not in the buildings insulation and downrate the RCD to a 16A. Voltage drop - must not drop more than 4% of the supply voltage at your furthest socket.

If a plug top (not a FCU) is used then its classed as a portable appliance, I'd use steel conduit under the floor and take the portable appliance with me if selling the house.