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Evening all Seems opinions on this are like a***holes, everybody has one and they're all different! We've had our basement flat living room stripped back to bare brick and brickwork de-effloresced (is that a word?) then membraned and then dot-and-dabbed with 40mm insulated plasterboard, then...

Fair enough. I though papering over emulsion was an issue though? This is what I was wanting to find out; thanks. Now I have to tell the missus she can't have the nice dado paper below and tastefull upper half yet but will have to look at bare walls for up to 6 months. That'll be fun... I...

Like the title says - we're soon having a room membraned and lined with Siniat XP then skim plastered. Builder says he'd leave it 6 months before papering. Online research (yes, I know, groan...) suggests maybe just wait until the dark patches have gone (a week or so) and then leave it another 2...

Pics attached. Note the 1970's "developer", or maybe someone who re-did the work sometime before we moved in in 2000 saw fit to put up polythene sheeting in that corner. Rest of wall to the right of this is drier, bottom of the battens are not rotten although there's lots of (mostly dry) spalled...

Only at the bottom dozen or so courses, and mostly at the corner where the walls meet and the other end of the old party wall. Seems right. The rest of the party wall is mostly dry and the odd spalled brick there is mostly due to them being mass-produced cheap Vistorian brick that is now 160...

Yes to all that. The wall with the radiator pipes is internal and separates the living room from the bedroom, the wall at right angles to it is the old party wall to what was the next property along (identical in design to ours), which has been filled in with **** knows what, there's a socking...

Yup, that's about right. All the walls are true and it's just in a couple of corners where there's obvious damp. Both these corners are on the wall adjoining next door, but the original building next door was comprehensively remodelled in 1943 by Messrs. Hitler & Heinkel, and the resulting...

Time to get a surveyor in, I think. We own 1/6 share of the freehold and as it's pretty clearly structural we should be able to get the cost shared. I'll instruct our managing agent accordingly. Re "major repairs" I'm totally at a loss as to how this should be approached! Would a surveyor...

The thread title doesn't do this justice, by far! We've lived here for 25 years, the flat is a basement of an 1860's victorian terrace and was converted back in the 1980's. It was obviously whitewashed bare brick before so the "developer" battened and plasterboarded every internal wall. The...

[Moved from Your Projects forum to abide by forum rules] Morning all - yes I've searched the forums and nothing matches my situation as far as I can see, so here goes: Victorian (c. 1865) basement flat beneath 5 floors. Our floor is concrete over brick and there's probably no DPC to speak of and...

Moved to flooring forum as per rules (Sorry!)

Woops - posted this on the wrong forum yesterday - berk! Hi We are in a basement flat and have had the dreaded rising and penetrating damp in our bathroom (measures 3.2m by 1.8m, so we had it totally stripped out and had a damp specialist fit Triton membrane (8mm to walls and ceiling, 20mm to...

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OK so further hacking and so on today and it's become a bit clearer and also more confusing, par for the course I guess... There are three distinct areas; there's a 6" high border at the bottom of the walls that is rock solid concrete, as hard as iron, and is showing no sign of deterioration or...

Hey ho - our flat is the basement of an 1860's building and as expected it's plagued with damp :-( We stripped the plasterboarding in the corner of our bedroom today as the wallpaper was lifting and we could tell the plasterboard underneath was pretty manky. Pic shows the wall we've uncovered -...

Looks that way! It's weird that the receiver seems to forget it's been paired with the sender. I've emailed Danfoss but I'd imagine one of the units is faulty; just wondred if anyone else has fitted one and had similar issues. Ah well.

The input for the boiler is just a connecting block; it is intended to have two wires connected to it which go to the switching contacts of a thermostat. Closed = on. That's exactly what comnes out of the receiver of the Danfoss. There's nothing wrong with that; it works. I can duplicate it with...

It's a relay signal, that's all the boiler needs. There's a red light on front of the receiver that shows whether it's being asked for heat by the sender or not; that's the indication that shows that the signal is dropping.

Nah it's compatible, the output from the receiver is just a pair of relay contacts, the boiler just needs a closed/open signal so no problem there.