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Hello! I'm renovating the bedroom in our late 19th century end of terrace and the original lime plaster is in poor shape. I may need to bring it all down and start from scratch and although this would be a pain it would allow me to internally insulate the pitched part of the ceilings as well as...

Quick follow-up to this. After putting it back together I noticed that the cable to the shower was wired in to the terminals marked 'In' and the cable to the CU was wired into the 'Out' terminals. Aren't these the wrong way round? I can't find the Crabtree instructions on t'internet to check...

So I tried reconnecting without the shower and the neon didn't come on. However, the connecting lugs for the neon seem to come from the load side so perhaps I should have wired it back to front to just test the light? Anyway, I thought I'd just try and reconnect everything and now it's...

Hello! Our shower has stopped working and the neon light on the pull switch won't illuminate when the cord is pulled. I've read a few threads and see that the cause is often the neutral connectors on the pull switch, but we do have one of the Crabtree 50A switches which I think are decent...

The celotex guidelines seemed to suggest this was ok, but it seemed a little odd to me to put chipboard on top of the insulation board. Most of the installation methods for insulation board have it buried under the slab, or at least under a screed.

It sounds like I've just ripped up a floor very similar to one you're thinking of laying. I had 40 to 50 mm of air gap under chipboard with no insulation on top of concrete with a DPM. I think the floor was 30 years old and everything iron under there was rusted through. One caveat is that my...

Hello! I have pulled up the floor of our extension, this consisted of a chipboard floor floating on battens that were resting on bits of DPC on top of a concrete base. The floor was contiguous with our existing suspended timber floor, but with no ventilation so all the wooden stuff was just...

Hello! I'd like to install some ground floor insulation in our house while we've got the floorboards up and am after some advice if possible. We've got a suspended timber floor, but unfortunately the joists are only 8" off the bottom so I'm not going to be able to work from underneath. The...

There's a place down in Devon that will sell you premixed lime mortar and plaster (I'm not sure what the rules are on posting links to commercial companies on this website). They also sell a DVD that I found quite useful.

I will get the kitchen done professionally when we get round to it and therefore I hope it will be on a separate ring/radial! The original installation was one "ring" for the whole house, however this ring consisted of a small ring with a number of spurs. One of the spurs had the immersion...

It looks like it used to have a copper mine, so I suppose it would have a vague link to electrical work... :oops:

:lol:

I have been installing a lighting circuit and a ring main upstairs. I've been doing them a room at a time and building control have been round to inspect the first fix. Once I have completed the circuits my understanding is that i will notify them and then have to pay to get the circuits tested.

Now I am confused. So if I have 15 2 gang sockets I have to design a ring main circuit that could conceivably take 30 3-bar electric fires? i.e. 90,000 W drawing a current of 375 A at 240 V? Thanks for the help.

I do live in England and Wales. I haven't contacted an electrican yet as I'm trying to work out whether it would be practical to notify the council myself, do the work myself and then get it tested and so signed off under part P.

Hello! Just after a bit of advice with circuit design if possible. The circuit(s) are for our lounge and dining-room/office (odd combination I know!) in a terrace house and I'm wondering whether I should go for a ring main for the lot or have two radials, one for each room. If I do the...

What ever happened to buyer beware? If someone wants to pay £100K+ on a house and not bother getting a proper survey done, then that's their problem. Thank God hips are going as well. I've had three lots of professional electrical work done on my house and not one of them has followed the...

It seems like scrapping Part P is a popular choice on the government's 'Your Freedom' web page. http://yourfreedom.hmg.gov.uk/cutting-business-and-third-sector-regulations/lets-remove-part-p-of-the-building-regulations

Doh! Thanks for that. Continuity testing revealed that 'common', '1' and the plastic covered 'T' are Common, L1 and L2. The terminal marked 'L' is not in continuity with anything regardless of the position of the switch. While fiddling with it I noticed that the terminal is a little thicker...

Terminals, clockwise from top. 'Common', '1', 'L' and 'T'